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Warpaint

Savage Orruk Painting

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11 replies to this topic

#1
Mik McMok the Mek

Mik McMok the Mek

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I'm currently painting up some Savage Orruks for 40k Snakebite units but I figured the post should go here as its applicable to both AOS and 40k.

Over the last few days I've watched a few painting tutorials, trying to familiarise myself  with the epic models and their detail, and gain a few tips as I'm not the best painter in the world, by far. 

Anyway, so I was thinking about the whole warpaint concept and basically most people seem to paint their models then add the warpaint. An idea came to me.

It was based on sports jerseys. There are a lot of rugby, GAA jerseys  ect nowadays that design their jerseys to enhance the players natural physique by clever tailoring and colour selection. This can give a subtle edge in gamesusing psycological warfare on their opponents. "They've more upper body strength than us, they are fitter and are going to hockey us all over the field"

So I'm going to try a different method of warpaint.

I'm going to use the warpaint to make the muscles stand out on the figures to make it really catch they eye instead of layering with a slightly different shade of colour to highlight the bulging muscle mass, I'm going to try with a completely different bold colour (Blue/white). Has anyone else tried this?

I've just finished the priming and base colours on my Unit of Morboyz (Nobz) and Arrowboyz (Boyz with Slugga/choppa) and am ready for a wash to bring out the details. so I'll find out pretty soon if it works.

 I'll let you know how I get on,


When all else fails Panic
If that doesn't work...then you know you're up to your neck in it!


#2
Mik McMok the Mek

Mik McMok the Mek

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The painting so far. With and without warpaint. All i need to add is the tattoos


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When all else fails Panic
If that doesn't work...then you know you're up to your neck in it!


#3
Mad Grot Docsnik

Mad Grot Docsnik

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I like the concept and you've done a good job with it. To refine it I would go easier on the amount. Only hit the tops of the muscles. Also try to make it look like it is applied by hand, i.e. finger streaks in the paint, dark centers with lighter, smeared edges. I was always a fan of the white palm print. You know, the way they did the White Hand Uruk-hai in P.J.s LotR movies. Yeah, there's a good place to go for some war paint examples. :yes 


  • Mik McMok the Mek likes this
Orks -- comic relief in the grim darkness of the far future.

"Unfortunately, there is no way of enforcing a rule that sigs should be genuinely witty or profound." -- Oddballz.

A wise grot knowz da roolz of Da Waaagh and obeyz dem.

#4
Mik McMok the Mek

Mik McMok the Mek

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I like the concept and you've done a good job with it. To refine it I would go easier on the amount. Only hit the tops of the muscles. Also try to make it look like it is applied by hand, i.e. finger streaks in the paint, dark centers with lighter, smeared edges. I was always a fan of the white palm print. You know, the way they did the White Hand Uruk-hai in P.J.s LotR movies. Yeah, there's a good place to go for some war paint examples. :yes

 Thanks a million for the feedback. Initially I was planning to paint the two units as blueskin orks rather than green, which in the end it turns out they are more like. I've added some bold yellow warpaint lines and stuff over this base warpaint, to visually pop out and repainted the red top knots on my Nobz unit, as well as repainting the banner totems on both units. I also added throwing spears to the Nob Unit by shaving down the hands from the ones in the spues. (This is more for WYSIWYG in gaming terms, for my opponent)

 

My plan was to highlight the muscle tone, while also giving a witch doctory spiece of panzee dungon effect of Baron Samedi from James Bond Live and let die, but I too have a fondness for the white palm, (as seen on my Big Squiggoth).

I tried to do a darker center of the warpaint on one model but it didn't look right so I abandoned that idea, but I was thinking the same way.. I'll try and get some pictures of the finished models together and add them to the trophy rack. I may try a last wash ortouch up in the shadowy parts before then though.


When all else fails Panic
If that doesn't work...then you know you're up to your neck in it!


#5
Badfang Brassaxe

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Pretty much agree with everything MGD said, but I don't think you're doing the mini's any favours by photographing them using flash - you're always going to get the whites bleaching out with it. For me the main thing I'd do would be to wash their teefs with a brown oil wash (or 'Agrax Earthshade' if you want to stick with Citadel)) to try and break them up a bit and get them looking a bit less pearly white. 


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#6
Mik McMok the Mek

Mik McMok the Mek

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Pretty much agree with everything MGD said, but I don't think you're doing the mini's any favours by photographing them using flash - you're always going to get the whites bleaching out with it. For me the main thing I'd do would be to wash their teefs with a brown oil wash (or 'Agrax Earthshade' if you want to stick with Citadel)) to try and break them up a bit and get them looking a bit less pearly white. 

I totally agree on the flash doing them no favours but getting a sunny day in december in Ireland is a tough ask  :biggrin which makes painting and photographing a challenge. 


  • Badfang Brassaxe likes this

When all else fails Panic
If that doesn't work...then you know you're up to your neck in it!


#7
Badfang Brassaxe

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I know what you mean about the sunlight - we're not much better off in the midlands and I have to take most of my photos at night lit by artificial light. Daylight balanced fluorescent lamps are your best bet.


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#8
Mad Grot Docsnik

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The other alternative to a sunny day is using a long exposure value. Okay, I know this is the day and age where everyone's phones take really good pictures and you never think about photography, but it is a not-difficult-to-learn skill. Get out your camera, not your phone, set up a tripod, do a little exposure length calculating (or just keep lengthening the exposure until you get enough accumulated light). My camera is about five years old now and is "only" six megapixel, but that's plenty for shooting miniatures. I admit that most of the time I use my phone (twice the resolution, better motion cancelling, near fool-proof automatic settings, plus a host of other software features), but there's really no substitute for doing things the old-fashioned way sometimes. ;)

 

Yeesh, I remember when we used to have film... :lol


  • Badfang Brassaxe and Mik McMok the Mek like this
Orks -- comic relief in the grim darkness of the far future.

"Unfortunately, there is no way of enforcing a rule that sigs should be genuinely witty or profound." -- Oddballz.

A wise grot knowz da roolz of Da Waaagh and obeyz dem.

#9
Mik McMok the Mek

Mik McMok the Mek

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Funny thing Mad Grot, I was playing with my phone to remove the flash last night and spotted an option to increase exposure. I tried a couple of shots with that on high and they came out pretty good so I was planning to take some snaps this morning of the now completed units and stick them in the trophy rack. I remember film too and instacameras and film coming in cartidges and all that fun stuff .


When all else fails Panic
If that doesn't work...then you know you're up to your neck in it!


#10
Mik McMok the Mek

Mik McMok the Mek

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Here are the finished Nobz and Boyz. I used a high resolution and no flash this time


When all else fails Panic
If that doesn't work...then you know you're up to your neck in it!


#11
Badfang Brassaxe

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That works a lot better :thumbs


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#12
Mik McMok the Mek

Mik McMok the Mek

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Thanks. 


When all else fails Panic
If that doesn't work...then you know you're up to your neck in it!






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