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Red Jack's (sukigod) Waaagh! Log

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#1
Sukigod

Sukigod

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  • Location:St. Cloud, MN
  • Army Name:Red Jack's Waaagh!
Ok, after lurking around here for a couple of years, putting in my two cents here and there, I'm going to start a log blog for my orky army. I've already got 2,500 points painted and figure better late than never to jump on this bandwagon. I have an intermittant blog over at CoolMiniorNot and that doesn't really work well for keeping track of a growing mob. For the larger projects, like my previous Battlewagon, I start a specific WIP thread over there but it's not in any order as to when it happens in my army's growth.

A quick "About Me" - been playing 40K since 1996, painting mini's since 2002, making/painting models since 1979. I love both aspects of this hobby (modeling and painting) and strive to excel at both, although I'm the first to admit, I'm a better painter than tactician!

I'll start posting the stuff you really came here for, like pictures and stuff in my next post so as not to make you re-read this every time (you're welcome!)

So... Welcome to Red Jack's Waaagh! Log and 'ere I go!

#2
Sukigod

Sukigod

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Got the time last night to test out the GW washes, well, one of them, at least. Devlin Mud will become a very popular wash, I predict.

Here\'s my testa boyz. In the pictures below (fronts, then backs), the top two are unwashed (heh, aren\'t all orks?) with two different colored pants. Both are GW Foundation colors, Tausept Ochre, the other Calthan Brown. The bottom is my first wash with the Devlin Mud. I applied this by dipping my brush into the pot, then dipping it in a water cup and \"mixing\" it on a palette. I thinned it out to what I thought looked right. I don\'t know how it should look, I was guessing here. It looked a little dark right out of the put so I figured to thin it a bit.

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They look alright, although I was expecting it to be more intense/darker in the lower areas. What the heck, I\'m testing things out, aren\'t I? I applied the wash straight from the pot onto the model and lo and behold....

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Although, while wet, it looks like it\'ll wash out all details, it settled itself right down and played nice.


Here\'s what it looks like applied on some more boyz.

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And, here\'s a direct comparison of the first wash that was watered down and the full on, straight from the pot application.

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And I don\'t know why, but this brings me to one of my favorite part of painting the boyz (besides sealing)... STITCHES!

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I finished basing them last night and I\'ll be Dulcote-ing them tonight after work - I\'ll post pics so you can see the difference the Testors spray has on the brightness. Till then, some beauty shots of the completed Lootas Mob. Enjoy!

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#3
Muskie

Muskie

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Where's the blue? So you put Devlan Mud over everything including the Ork Flesh? Red doesn't do bad with a brown wash, but my pot of Mecharite Red or whatever kinda sucks. I'm not a total convert on the Foundation paints or the one thick coat and then a wash. I prefer two thin base coats then a highlight then a wash then more as needed, especially for a color like red. I'll have to speed paint some points for fantasy or 40K again someday but for now, I'm doing a nice job on my AoBR Nob with in progress pics available on the Waaagh somewhere... Waaagh Musk look for that.
My more famous army is the Diseased Sons. My new hobby blog has pics of green skins old and new if you dig a little.

#4
Sukigod

Sukigod

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Blue? Deyz not deffskullz. I suppose this might confuse some as this thread kinda picked up from my blog at CMON. The red on the guns were done very differently from the boyz bodies. That was, in order: Black primer, Mechrite Red, Scab Red, Red Gore, Blood Red, Badab Black, Blood Red, Fiery Orange and a touch of white on just a few surfaces. I too find the Devlin Mud doesn't quite give me the contrast on reds that I want, although. full strength, it worked on the boots. The Devlin Mud is not on the face/head. I did that seperately since I wanted to control how that turned out. I always try to make the faces detailed and generally cut back on the body as it's usually not the focus of the model. The faces were inked using Dark Green Ink. I'll keep an eye out for your AoBR warboss, that's either next or next, next on my list.

#5
Sukigod

Sukigod

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The humidity dropped enough today to spray my lootas with Dulcote. Here's the final products, compared to the photos above, which are brighter and have more shine. I do paint them brighter and take the highlights up at least one more step after I'm satisfied, knowing that the Dullcote has a tendancy to mute things.

After working on so many of the same unit, I'm ready to spend a lot of time on a single model. The next unit will be a warboss of some sort - either the Assault on Black Reach warboss which A: is all the rage right now, and B: Deserves the rage as it's an awesome model - or one of two Gazghkull models I have packed away. I'll see what strikes my fancy as I sit down to start it tomorrow (although I have a sneaky suspicion it'll be the AoBR Warboss.)

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#6
Grubsnikk

Grubsnikk

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Very, very good. This actually is a top-notch tutorial on the use of Devlan Mud. Very good pictures and it's so clear and easy to follow. Keep it up, and I'll not be surprised if it ends up in the 'how do I' section.
FEELD-MARSHULL GRUBSNIKK
KOMMANDA OV DA KREEPIN' DEFF BLOOD AXES


LICHTENAUER FOR PRESIDENT!

quote: 'I like the variation on head you get plus the FB box has a nob sprue' jackdoud
quote: 'Then it isn't da waaagh's issue, we don't get ninja-lawyer'd and everyone lives happily ever after. Even the bunnies.' Blakkreaper
quote: 'If an ordered list of thread links isn't enough for you to find something then give up now and take up embroidery. cheers.gif' jackdoud

#7
kloudfire

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Could you do one mini step by step? I love your paint job and would like to do something similar

#8
Sukigod

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Sure can kloudfire! My next project is going to be the AoBR warboss. I'm making a few modifications (nothing major) and will be loging it pretty closely. I'll make sure I take many pics when I do the skin.

#9
Sukigod

Sukigod

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Started on my next project, the Assault on Black Reach Warboss. I'm going to try a few things I haven't before, like greenstuff, so I'm learning things here and if you folks have any tips/hints/help along the way, it's more than appreciated. the AoBR warboss is a bit static (if you haven't heard, hehe) so I'm amking some chanegs, although subtle. I want t ochange the angle of the powerklaw arm and change the angle of his head. The will be an easy one, the arm, not so much.

Here's the base warboss parts - all washed up. The reports are true, the new AoBR models are greasy! Normally I don't wash my plastics but you can actually feel the grease/oils on these so after awash in warm soapy water and a drying, time to start cuttin'!

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First, I remove the ribbed hose, just cut that sucker right off, them trim the remaining plastic off the powercord to the klaw. Because of the way I'll be bending the arm, I won't be able to twist both bits and hav eit look right so I'll replace the ribbed hose with some guitar string after the arm is reattached. Then I sever the arm as close to the shoulder guard as possible.

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I then CAREFULLY use a candle to heat up just the wire that's holding everything together. This takes some getting used to and you can't rush it for a few reasons. Thin plastic melts QUICKLY! The other factor is heat will have a tendancy to make the plastic swell and loose it's shape/detail, even in the surrounding areas. I slowly warmed the plastic and bent/twisted the arm so I could get at the stump to sand a different angle into it.

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When I put the angle I wanted on it (which ended up being a moot point) I reheated it and put into the angle I wanted and let it cool.

Here's the new angle compared to the other untouched warboss model.

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My first greenstff. tricky stuff that greenstuff. I read a lot before using it and I know it'll take a little time/experience to make it work better but I have to learn sometime, right? I think my next attempt will be better.

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I picked up these dental tools at an antique store for $2 a piece. Glad I did!

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Now it's time to replace that hose I sliced off earlier. We've got a few electric guitars around the house so I actually had this on hand. If you don't have a guitar picker around it pays to stop buy any music store and get a pack of cheap strings, any size will work and you'll get two strings, roughly 3' long. That'll make a lot of hose.

I start by making a pilot hole for the drill bit by using a new Exacto plade point to mark where the holes center should be (left). Twist the blade in place making a tiny hole in the middle (right). This will keep your drill bit from "wandering" as you start your hole.

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It's also a good idea to pick up a rounded needlenose pliers (poorly pictured bleow) as these are perfect for shaping and bending guitar wire around without causing kinks to appear.

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And here's the new boss with his arm adjusted the way I want him and new hose in place.Not bad for a nights work.

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#10
cragum

cragum

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i saw them lootas on your own personal page other day and i must say they are damned nicely painted! just love the reds on them! bet they do some damage on the battlefield aswell! whats your plans next then? :cheers cragum :cheers
Ye Charge Or ye Get Charged.
You Choose... But i KNow i Doent wanna Get Charged By some poncy umies or panzies!

-Big Boss Warr-E-

#11
Sukigod

Sukigod

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Thanks cragum! For whats next, see above :biggrin

#12
Sukigod

Sukigod

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Made a snazzy new base for my new bass-ass Red Jack warboss.

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I think the angle of the debris adds to the menace factor, really making him look much more animated. Here he is sticky-tacked to the base and compared to a "Barry" and the stock AoBR warboss. Not much to do now but tidy up the greenstuff mess on his shoulder and then it's prime time!

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#13
Sukigod

Sukigod

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Over the years, I've had quite a few people ask me how I do my ork skin. After a few failed attempts to document, I've finally succeeded. Here's how I do my orks...

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A few notes: Ork hide is a great replacement for Dark Angels Green. I didn't stop using it all together, just differently. The Dark Green Ink (which they no longer sell...) has been replaced with the DA Green, but as a wash between the Goblin and Scorpion Greens. I prefer the color transition this gives better than the inks did. The paint based wash also dries faster!

I don't use straight water to thin my paints - no, not snobbery, just that I have a premixed bottle of some additives taht do things to the paint and I don't have to measure each out all the time. Although I usually add more water through the brush as I'm painting, adjusting as I go depending on what the paint is doing on my palette.

Here's my mix... 50% Water, 25% Golden (brand) Acrylic Flow Release and 25% Magic Wash MIx (4:1 Water/Mop-n-Glow).
I thin the paint down about 1:2 or 2:1 (Paint/Mix) as a starter, then adjust w/water untill it flows from the brush nicely.

The rest is pretty much standard. In the darker greens I paint almost the entire muscle by grouping, leaving the small areas in the deepest recesses primer black. When I get to Golbin Green Istart leaving the bottom of the muscles alone, concentrating on the tops and middle of the muscle. Buy the time I get to the Scorpion Green, I'm only hitting the very tops of the muscle, where direct overhead light would hit it. All of these layers are put down at least twice. If your paint is thinned and applied correctly, it dried fairly fast.

The final step is the Dullcote layer. It's a flat spray sealer from Testors. If you're in the US you can find it in almost any hobby store. The UK recently banned it due to the tolune content but sounds like there's a non-tolune based version in the works. The two most important things to remember about Dullcote is #1: everything will be duller, including all highlights. I always bring my higlights up at least one step past where I want it. Notice how in the photo above, the Scorpion Green is not as bright as the second to last step. And #2: Dullcote is your friend bacuase it can do some of your "blending" of layers for you. I think the diffusion of the matte layer helps fool the eye a bit into thinking two close colors are smoother than they really are.

Hope you enjoyed this little tutorial about my ork skin. When I do my special units like Warboss, Big Mek, etc. I use these same steps but with many, many more steps and thinner layers to mke a more gradual change in the colors. I'll try to show you on my current warboss project (if I remember to take pictures!)

Sukigod

#14
kloudfire

kloudfire

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Great work, keep the updates coming!

#15
Sukigod

Sukigod

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Got the skin painted on the warboss face tonight, I might get the eyepiece done as well, we'll see how much longer I paint.

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#16
Sukigod

Sukigod

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Finished up the head tonight - didn't get much time in but hey, it's a start and many small steps...

I tried the purple look that's featured in the GW Masterclass article for the Warboss mouth interior. Close but not quite as crisp as the article. Dang thing reminds me of my painting shortcomings.... aslo gives me somethign to strive for. The metallics are washing out due to the lighting, they're much darker in real life - that's metal based paint for ya.

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#17
kloudfire

kloudfire

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which metal paints do you use?

#18
Zog

Zog

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Great tutorial Thanks for sharing :thumbs
Gone crazy.... Back soon....

#19
Sukigod

Sukigod

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which metal paints do you use?


I use the Games Workshop/Citadel paints almost exclusively.

#20
Sukigod

Sukigod

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Progress has been pretty slow lately due to other enagements and I'm suffering a little to day from a coworkers wedding yesterday ( :cheers :cheers :cheers ) so I don't trust myself with a brush! :rolleyes

I've painted most of the back piece for the warboss, not sure what to do with the tube coming out from his side and what color I'm going to paint the fringe/tassel on the bosspole - I'll let inspuration strike me later.

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