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Some noobish questions

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29 replies to this topic

#1
Fishhead Slackjaw Mcgee

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Alrght, heres some lame questions First thing: How do you atatch plastic bits to metal models? Im trying to do some minor conversion on a slaver, and I cant get the stuff to stick. Ive used aryldite, but it doesnt work well. Next: whats the deal with varnish? Do i need it to protect my models or something? These questions bring me great shame, but im asking them anyway.
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#2
Biv

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Alrght, heres some lame questions

First thing: How do you atatch plastic bits to metal models? Im trying to do some minor conversion on a slaver, and I cant get the stuff to stick. Ive used aryldite, but it doesnt work well.

Next: whats the deal with varnish? Do i need it to protect my models or something?
These questions bring me great shame, but im asking them anyway.

1. You need superglue, sir.
2. Yes, it protects the paint on your model from fading and damage.
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#3
Jurgatz

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I don't know what aryldite is.. but I'm presuming it's the type of glue that melts and bonds plastic together.. stuff like that won't work on metal as you've found out.. you'll need a superglue. personally I recommend Loctite liquid superglue.. I use this for most of my sticking.. plastic to plastic.. metal to metal.. plastic to metal.. and whatever resin models may come my way. just don't use it on greenstuff as it reacts, makes it cure faster and gives it a weird texture.. I wouldn't use it for sand and bases either.. just use a PVA. Some hardcore woodgluing PVA is usually best. Jurgatz' fun fact: superglue bonds skin better than anything else :thumbs as for varnish.. not really necessary. but a nice spray on matt varnish can really help your models (especially metal models) from getting chipped and damaged in the inevitable bustle and transportation. I've not much experience with varnished though. there's no shame.. everyone's got to start somewhere. At least you're asking the questions..
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#4
Fishhead Slackjaw Mcgee

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Hmm. I tried the GW superglue, and it was lame. It didnt even stick metal to metal good! Ill try to see if i can find any Loctite here at the edge of the world... I havent tried greenstuff yet. I have motor dyspraxia, so i have little confidence in my modeling ability (my mum kindly helped me with the details on my models :() Im not going to base my models. I think its weirder to have a bunch of guys treading on sand in the middle of an ice world than hovering on funky black platforms :lol Hmm....I dunno bout the varnish. Ill have to think about it.
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#5
Kr00zA

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Aryldite is a two part glue that stinkz of fish. Its realy messy and not at all recommended for use on small models. Supa Glue is realy your only option. If your having trouble with it maybe ur using too much. You only need to use the tiniest amount to get a good bond. Try shaking the bottle up before you use it.
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#6
Steel Fist Mek Guy

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1. If the going gets tough with the super glue (I get that crap too), then I suggest pining it and then green stuffing around it (only if you're desperate). 2. Gloss makes your models safe fom scratches and stuff, but makes them look horrible on the tabletop, unless they're traitors or nids covered in blood and/or slime. I accidentally did it to all my nids so I'm redoing them.
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#7
Fishhead Slackjaw Mcgee

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By tiny amount...whats a tiny amount? as in a corner of the brush, or a single wipe? And how do you pin stuff?
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#8
Dribble Joy

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Aryldite is a two part epoxy resin, stuff that takes 24 hours to set but once it's set, you'll never break it apart. It's even used in car and aeroplane manufacturing. Superglue should work. Remember to use it sparingly and clean the surfaces being bonded. Super glue sticking superglue doesn't work, so if you get it wrong, clean the old stuff off before trying again. Matt varnish is best, it may look grey and horrible, but it works. Best results come from drybrushing it on, as this protects the parts that are likely to get damaged and stops it collecting in the cracks and crevasses where it will keep the grey colour.

#9
Fishhead Slackjaw Mcgee

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Ok. No varnish, clean the old glue off of my bigs *Grumbles*. Also, how well do the banners from the common gobbo's work as boss poles? I understand that they might be a little weedy, but i think they would work. Has anyone done them before?
For da Greena Good!
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Current project: Painting Loota's and burna's and trukkboyz (oh my!). Additionally starting Lizardman warhost. Anyone with ideas can PM me
Being a Whiner is easy if your deffinition of inadequate is flexible enough

#10
Steel Fist Mek Guy

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And how do you pin stuff?

You will need a pin drill vice (they sell it at GW) and some drill bits (sell it at GW too). Its sort of a handheld drill with thin needles to slowly drill through a section of the model. Then you drill a hole about the same length into the other part you want, and connect them by gluing them together with a thread of sturdy copper (or whatever kind) wire in the holes.

I'm complete crap at explaining, I know, but I'm sure some of the other members will clear it up for you.

By the way, I reckon Gobbo bannerz look about the right size for bosspoles, not to big and not to small.
Check this out its so funny!

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"Thought of da day: It’z easier to Shoot stuff dead than to chop it dead, but it’z not as fun."- Atomic Top Hat
Some people are like sllnky's. They bring a smile to our face as we push them down a set of stairs.
"If that was my cat i woulda punted it through a window. Actually, i would do that anyway."-Jolly Ork

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#11
da mekka

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Aryldite is a two part glue that stinkz of fish. Its realy messy and not at all recommended for use on small models.


So true and sigged, I've got some bad experience with this smelly glue.
And 1 more thing if you are using soopa glue, dont use those small 3g metal tube soopa glues. They stink if you manage to inhale the fume. It ruins your clothes if you drop a tiny bit on the clothing. Last it gets everywere you don't wan't it to go ;)

Cheerz
QUOTE (Kr00zA @ Jul 17 2007, 01:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Aryldite is a two part glue that stinkz of fish. Its realy messy and not at all recommended for use on small models.

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#12
DentedHead

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One other tip, Fishhead- I find it helps to lightly file or sand metal surfaces before trying to superglue them. I'm aware with most CA adhesives (CA stands for Cyano Acrylate, (sp?)-superglue/crazyglue/Zapp etc ) the instructions call for a smooth surface, but trust me, clean and lightly textured works better. I almost never pin models as I find this method provides a good strong join (when coupled with all the advice given above). Also, I've never seen a superglue with a brush applicator, are you sure its actually superglue?

As for epoxies like Araldite, they are great for some things (like R/C aircraft- my other hobby) but near useless for modeling.

Hope this helps.


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#13
Oddballz

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Fishhead - you've got some very useful answers there, I think :thumbs Another point about attaching plastic and metal is that it's normally not a very good bond; metal tends to stick better to metal. You should pin the two components together if you can (unless you're attaching a relatively small item to a larger one, and there's plenty of contact between the two). Always pin things like arms and weapons. I suggest that you fill any gaps with greenstuff (which will help keep things together). Thus, for example, if I attach a plastic Ork arm to a metal model, I deliberately leave a bit of a gap, which I cram with greenstuff. Generally, you want to avoid having any stress on the join, so a plastic arm that's attached to a metal body shouldn't be holding a heavy metal weapon.
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#14
Mad Grot Docsnik

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The GW Supa Glue is :bleep Loctite rocks. There are others that are good too. A small amount is a drop such that when you push the two parts together none of the glue squeezes out the edges. I.e. just enough to cover the surface being bonded. Varnish is good if you want to keep your paint jobs on your minis for more than 3 or 4 games. Unvarnished acrylics will chip when fully cured if subjected to rough handling. They will also absorb oils from your fingers so that the high points become shiny and all the colors will start getting darker and browner. If you figure you're going to repaint the minis, don't bother with varnish. If you think you want to keep them for a long time use varnish. Get a GOOD matte varnish and it won't affect the colors too much. Testor's Dullcote is about the best, IMHO. @Steel Fist -- go back and hit your "spoiled" nids with Dullcote and you'll be very pleased with the result. No more shiny bugs! Pinning is an essential modeling skill. I think there's a pinning tutorial in one of the GW books or on-line. Can't find it ATM, but I'll see if I can find it. No such thing as a lame question, Fishboy. We all gotta learn somehow and asking a bunch of crufty old vets is the quickest way. Waaagh on!
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#15
Thor

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Like others have already said, but figured I'd give my agreement to it, that pinning works great and also about roughing up the two surfaces being joined. If pinning isn't an option for you at the moment then at least rough up the surfaces for a better bond. Usually what I do for smaller things where using sandpaper is tough to use is take a modeling knife and make cuts one way and then cuts perpendicular to the first ones so it's like a checkerboard of cuts.

#16
Blackbone

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brushthralls.com has some excellent articles on basic and advanced hobby techniques. Here is the pinning one:

http://www.brushthra...h...9&Itemid=41

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#17
Penelope the Wonder Pony

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I've found that paper clips work well for pinning- they're strong enough and just the right size. Just drill a hole in each side of the weak join so that the holes line up, and glue a small piece of paperclip into one of the holes. Then just glue the two bits together, and the paperclip should help strengthen the bond. If you're finding difficulties holding the superglue still while it dries, try using some form of accelerant, such as bicarbonate of soda (your mum should have some of it, it's used in cooking). If it's an awkward bond, I use it. You roughen up both surface with sandpaper, dip one bit in the bicarb (it's a fine white powder) and put glue on the OTHER component, and then bring the two together, being careful to line them up. It'll set in seconds. Just be careful to not stick your fingers to it! :thumbs Once it's set, blow off the excess bicarb. The only downside to this is that it makes the join slightly more brittle, but when combined with pinning it's not an issue.

#18
Netherorc

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i made a guide on paint to show you how to pin. its not fantastic but its the basic way to do it.

http://i114.photobuc...detopinning.jpg
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#19
DaSquigBrain

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Hobby shops usually also sell superglue accellerant, which will instantly cure the glue. They usually sell it in a spray bottle, which is truly insane, as the stuff is stinky, and gets all over the place. I just don't use the spray pump, and apply it with an eyedropper.
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#20
Greyfen

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Regarding the varnish, its best to use spray varnish. On my models I usually do one spary coat of gloss or semi gloss varnish and after that is completely dry, I spray on two coats of matte varnish. If you have the cash, Testors Gloss Coat and Testors Dull Coat work well, but for the same price as one can of Testors you can get a large can of Krylon Matte Varnish for the matte finsih and it works just as good if not better then Testors Dull Coat. I cannot comment on the Krylon Gloss Varnish as I have not used all of my Testors yet. EDIT: Oh yes, The reason I use both Gloss and Matte is becuase if you play alot just handeling the minis will wear on the paint (varnish) if you have gloss under the Matte finish then once you start seeing a shine on your mini's you can do a quick spray of Matte again and make sure your paint does not wear or chip off.
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