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Weathering trial #1


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8 replies to this topic

#1
mr_maxime

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after chatting with people at the lgs and seeing aga's tutorial, i decided i'd try weathering using salt

i started by mixing some graphite and georgia red clay with thinned down tamiya flat brown. I was rather careless, but graphite and clay should be very finely ground/cut to prevent clogging. It was a lot of trouble spraying this first layer on.
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Next I used foam to dab on blazing orange, followed by dark flesh, and finally bestial brown. Doing the browns after the orange helped to tone down the intensity of the orange.
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Then i rubbed graphite powder over the pieces. I think this step makes the rust look much better.
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I sprayed dullcote on to protect the graphite. I ground sea salt with varying sizes hoping to add realism. I stuck it on using water. It didnt work too well, so i brushed on more water to try to make it stick better.
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After letting it dry, I airbrushed red over the pieces. I had to keep the airbrush far to prevent from blowing off the looser pieces of salt. After the red dried, I brushed the salt off under water and this is the final product.
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next time i think im going to start with thinned down brown without the added junk. I am very pleased with the way the rust effect looks before the paint. I have some mixed feelings about the final product. I dont know why the red looks so faded around the chipping. Id like to find a better way to get the salt to stick as well.

let me know what you guys think. this is my first attempt so im still working on how to make it look better. any tips are welcome.

 I'm right, and nothing ever annoys me more. - Dim


#2
NCODB

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Looks alright. However, for rust colours, i'd have done it the other way - Have the red rust underneath, then put the metallic paint over top, as the bright rust would be patchy rather than completely covering in most instinces. Also, i'd look at using smaller chunks of salt, or spreading them out more so they're not as clumped together, which will give you more patchy areas rather than a few really large chunks. Otherwise, looking pretty decent! :thumbs Good work!
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#3
mr_maxime

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the red isnt rust. its red paint. i wanted to get it brighter, but salt started blowing off. i also wanted to use something with more contrast, but i dont have many paints that will airbrush easily. Ill try using smaller chunks, but it was very hard to spread them out because big clumps stuck to the pieces while smaller ones blew right off.

 I'm right, and nothing ever annoys me more. - Dim


#4
Hasdrubal

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I would also recommend not s^raying a paint/gloss varnish mix when doing salt weathering, as I learnt from experience the salt get very difficult to remove afterwards! Good overall efect, but using both coarse ground and table salt should yield better results (more variation in chips size).

#5
Badfang Brassaxe

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Looking at your before and afters, your initial rust layer had some 'interesting' bits and some 'boring' bits and the salt seems to have been placed on the boring bits, which in turn leaves boring rusty bits when the salt comes off (always a potential problem using 'random' techniques). Only used this technique a couple of times but I found the best way to get the rust in the right place was to soak the whole thing in water and then drop table salt as and where required, and even then it's very hit & miss ('random' again) As far as blowing the salt off, I can only suggest dropping the pressure on your regulator as I've used this method with a paintbrush without pulling too much salt off. Wouldn't worry about the red fading too much - suspect it's the salt bleaching the paint - IMO it gives a nice auto-variation which could be softened by a wash or two if need be. Over all, not bad for a first try :thumbs

#6
Agatheron

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Looks good. I've used sea-salt when applying it to a model, although I usually brush on a layer of water onto the model, and then use a salt grinder to apply the salt over the model, and then let the water dry. That should have the salt hold onto the model quite solidly. You can then use cold water to rinse. I like the idea of applying the graphite rub before the paint... I'll have to try that. :thumbs
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#7
mr_maxime

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ill try using a salt grinder directly over that pieces next time. i dunked the kan engine in water, but the water didnt seem to hold onto the piece very well. even when i brushed water onto the tank piece it didn't stay on it very well. That might be because of the dullcote, so ill skip that step as well next time.

 I'm right, and nothing ever annoys me more. - Dim


#8
Badfang Brassaxe

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Generally water will stick better to a matt surface, haven't tried it myself but it might be worth 'thinning' the water with a bit of screenwash (as recommended by FW for washes) to get the water to stick more evenly :?

#9
mr_maxime

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im going to try adding a bit of white glue next time as recommended on another forum. itll be a while before my next attempt though.

 I'm right, and nothing ever annoys me more. - Dim