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Red Jack's (sukigod) Waaagh! Log

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#701
Sukigod

Sukigod

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So I'm back in the saddle for a time, we'll see how long it goes ;)

I've actually been working on and off on this monster for about three weeks and the only thing I've accomplished has been the metallic weathering. I know, not much to weathering, right? Egggad, I wish. For anyone who saw the tutorial a few years ago about my weathering using the Skullhamma's, you'll know it's a long and tedious process. Sponged base/primer layer, then all hand done (with various size brushes) metals so they all stay nicely within (or trying to) the boundaries of the worn primer.

I'm done with the weathered metallics and done the brassy pieces and the main guns in the Deff Arsenal. I put it together for show since I haven't seen it in one piece in about a year. It is coming together now and I can finally see some sort of light at the end of the tunnel. Lots of smaller details like the exhausts, canopy, rear engine nacelles (black/white checks), bombs, and the Deff Arsenal. Then it's back to washes for grime, an airbrush for smoke/exhaust smoke stains - a brief touch up on details to bring them back out from washing - then sealing. I'm really hoping to have this giant wrapped up by Halloween. We'll see how that goes ;)

ps. I know there's some shots without the main Deff Arsenal kannons - they were in the process of being painted when I took these. That also accounts for some barrel droop in some photos as well, they're only blue-tac'd on at the moment.

Later!
bommer187.jpg

bommer188.jpg

bommer189.jpg

bommer190.jpg

bommer191.jpg

And a couple of Barry shots - one shown against a dakka jet.....

bommer192.jpg


And a different kinda Barry shot ;)

bommer193.jpg

 


  • jackdoud, Badfang Brassaxe, M.E.K. and 4 others like this

#702
Giganotosaurus

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Looks fantastic, what a monster job painting this beasty! :thumbs Weathering is hard work :bang, anyone who says otherwise is lying. :nono There is a model car based book by Virgil Suarez, aka "Dr. Cranky", called; Ratz, Rodz, and Rust: Building Models Cranky's Way. At $22.49 (on Amazon, he has some YouTube videos as well), it is a good value, I highly recommend it! :yes Your stuff is always amazing, I look forward to your next posting.

 

P.S. How are the 10 billion mosquitoes in your neck of the woods doing this year? :?



#703
derry

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Glad to see you took the time to do the weathering right. On my big projects, I often skip the last stage of painting, which is to make what one has spent all that time on into something truly awesome.

 

Yours is already truly awesome and getting even more so.  :love

 

  :thumbs  :thumbs Two thumbs up for Team Tenvoorde



#704
r_squared

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I've just been going back through this thread and I have to say it is stunning. Awesome work my friend!



#705
Targetlokk

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great thread, loads of inspiring stuff throughout  :thumbs



#706
Sukigod

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Thanks all!
 

Giganotosaurus:  Thanks for the heads up on that book. I think I'll add it to my library very soon.

And, surprisingly, the mosquitoes haven't been all that bad this year which is kind of a shock since we've gotten a decent amount of rain too. Not complaining though ;)



#707
DocNuK

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nice to see you back.


In the end, it was the Sunday afternoons he couldn't cope with, and that terrible listlessness which starts to set in at about 2:55, when you know that you've had all the baths you can usefully have that day, that however hard you stare at any given paragraph in the papers you will never actually read it, or use the revolutionary new pruning technique it describes, and that as you stare at the clock the hands will move relentlessly on to four o'clock, and you will enter the long dark teatime of the soul.

#708
Giganotosaurus

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If you are planning to (eventually) make an orky version of the Kalinin K-7, as suggested by Badfang Brassaxe, you might as well make a Tsar Tank too! :yes I am curious as to what you would use for the stompa sized wheels. :biggrin



#709
Badfang Brassaxe

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More cheers to see this thread up & running again  :thumbs



#710
Sukigod

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Boom!

We'll see how long this lasts ;)

A long time ago in a house about 5 miles away, I started a green project, but of a different kind. It's a Bride of Frankenstein and The Monster kit that my wife wanted me to do up (she's a huge Bride fan). Looking for something to while the time away and brush up on my painting skills before returning the mighty green horde, I revisited this awesome kit to test myself.

Earlier I worked on the clothing for both as it was pretty easy. I was hesitant to work on the faces for a few reasons. One, the scale is MUCH larger than our standard 28mm figures. Second, I knew I'd need to do some larger area blending and wasn't sure how to go about it. In the interest of pushing myself, I dove in last night and figured I could always strip and reprime if I screwed it up too badly.

So, in my usual fashion of step by step (when I remembered to take photos, that is), here's how I did Frankie's head and hands.

The head and hands were primed white, then I applied a base coat of Bleached Bone and a thin covering of Rotting Flesh - (first two photos). I wanted a light, almost ghostly pallor to his skin, I wasn't looking to go all super-green, comic style monster. The green should almost be a rotting, under the skin appearance so I didn't mind of the lighter Bleached Bone showed on the high points as I was planing on wet brushing back up to create highlights later.

bride10.jpg
bride11.jpg

To achieve a bit of a sore, bruising effect around the stitching/attachment points for the various body parts (you would think they'd be a bit sore), I used Baal Red wash from GW. This was built up in a multiple layers, each one adding more color closer to the gaps and the deepest recesses under the eyes and around the rope/metal bar holding the left wrist together. (looks a little painful, doesn't it?) Yes, the application is a little sloppy at this point but I know I was going back over with the Rotting Green and Bleached Bone to blend it back in. This also achieves a bit of an underpainting technique, tinting the skin form underneath.

bride12.jpg

I now moved onto the blues. This was applied around some of the veins in the hands, under the chin, mouth, nostrils, and under the brow. The blue creates a much more subtle shadowing under the brows that simply using black. There's a small touch of Baddab Black wash in the deepest recesses of the mouth, nostrils, and underbrow/eyesockets. Things are a little rough, bit the wet brushing stage helps bring it all together.

bride13.jpg

So, here's where I got dug in and was so in the flow I didn't take many pics. Here's what's happened since: I wet brushed Rotting Flesh, then a wet brushing of Bleached Bone to bring back the highlights and blend the bruising effects together. I also did a very light wet brushing of Skull White to the very highest points (brow, nose, cheekbones, knuckles, etc). This gives a little extra pop and adds depth without having to darken the recesses excessively. I also did the fingernails, rope and bar, hear, and leather stitching holding his skullcap on.

bride14.jpg

Here's the completed Frank figure with his head and hands in the right place :)

bride15.jpg
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And a quick shot with his honey - Her dress and arms are done, still waiting for the courage to start her face. There's also a settee, floor, stone wall background and assorted lab equipment to paint up but those will be fairly easy and quick. I'm excited to work on the settee and stone as I've read up on some new techniques I want to try on them.

bride17.jpg

Till next time!

Later!

and yes, I'll be returning soon to the bomma - just need to finish the Bride and Frank first.


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#711
DocNuK

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he's alive, alive, ALIVE!!


  • Sukigod and Giganotosaurus like this
In the end, it was the Sunday afternoons he couldn't cope with, and that terrible listlessness which starts to set in at about 2:55, when you know that you've had all the baths you can usefully have that day, that however hard you stare at any given paragraph in the papers you will never actually read it, or use the revolutionary new pruning technique it describes, and that as you stare at the clock the hands will move relentlessly on to four o'clock, and you will enter the long dark teatime of the soul.

#712
Giganotosaurus

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You're making Boris & Elsa proud! :yes Outstanding paint! :thumbs



#713
Sukigod

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So this whale is back on the bench :)

 

Now it's down to the details; pick one, knock it out and move on to the next one. Pretty soon I should be done.

 

The metallics took for ever and it's not a dramatic change from back when I put it on hold again. I'll be finishing off the wing details first, then on to the deff arsenal - which I'm is going to suck since I made it so danged detailed. Anyway, here's some pics of progress.

 

bommer194.jpg

bommer195.jpg

bommer196.jpg

 

Later!


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#714
Giganotosaurus

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Whither you weather, or wither while you weather? :biggrin

 

P.S. What you have done looks fantastic! :love  I don't envy you the rest of the task. :bang 



#715
Itinerate Ork

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The plane already looks amazing - I'm looking forward to the finishing touches!



#716
Sukigod

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Tutorial Inbound!

 

Yellow – the bane of nearly every mini painters existence. I wanted a few panels in yellow as it a great accent color for all the reds and whites across this model. So I started where I always start – the Internet!

 

After an hour or so of research I had a plan. It seems the only really good way is to layer from dark to light, something I’m not afraid of doing. I dug through my collection of aging paints and pulled out this selection to get me there.

 

bommer197.jpg

 

I’m not a big fan of the Bad Moons shade of yellow – to light and bright for me, I prefer a Golden Yellow, something a bit warmer to go with the reds, less contrast. Aaaand, of course, since I haven’t actively painted in some time, my Golden Yellow has dried up hard as a rock :(  So, with what I have on hand that’s salvageable, I try to mix up my own version to limited success.

 

Here are the steps I used to create my yellow panels. All paints were thinned, even the base paints.

 

Starting with a black primer, I blanketed the panels with Scorched Brown, then stepped up to Calthan Brown, finishing up my brown base layers with Snakebite Leather.

The first real yellow color was the Iyanden Darksun base paint. This went on extremely well and I was really happy at where it was at this point. I figured it would be an easy layering of the other yellows to what I wanted but things didn’t work out that way.

 

I tried to approximate the Golden Yellow color by mixing Sunburst Yellow and Blazing Orange but this only created a weird orangy/yellow mix that frankly didn’t look good, so I tried simply working up to the Sunburst Yellow, hoping to add the warm tone through inks/washes.

 

It took about 4 layers total of Sunburst Yellow to get a somewhat smooth, even coating. I didn’t have the new Casandra Yellow wash so I did what I always do, improvise. I mixed Yellow Ink with Flesh Wash, thinned it down and washed the panels with it. While it does add depth, it really didn’t tint like I thought it would – leaving the panels looking “washed” and not Golden Yellow. Oh well.

 

I have since picked up the new replacement for Golden Yellow, Yriel Yellow, and the Cassandra Yellow wash and will be trying them out on a couple other smaller panels soon. Hopefully I can crack the yellow code and make it work.

 

Here’s the pics of progression – enjoy!

 

bommer198.jpg

 

Later!


  • Itinerate Ork and Big Mek Rekkcrasha like this

#717
r_squared

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Interesting, I'd not seen this method before, only a recent imperial fist tutorial which started off with a cream base and used washes to great effect. I like this though, especially as I always undercoat black anyway. I'll give it a try myself, thanks for posting it up. ☺

#718
Giganotosaurus

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I have to say that this is exactly what this blog is about. :yes  Whether it's the result of an epiphany, research, or painful trial and error, we benefit from the knowledge shared by others. Thanks for the tutorial Sukigod. :thumbs



#719
Itinerate Ork

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The end result looks great. As suggested in your post, I've had my fair share of annoyances with painting yellow.

 

The method I've used is actually very similar to what you've shown here, although it's not so much that I prefer going from a very dark color to something as light as yellow - I am a messy painter and I think black primer helps cover this better than a lighter color.

 

One thing I did want to point out is that you've managed a very even result at each of the stages - I imagine this took a lot of layering. Depending on the effect you are aiming for at the end, I've found I can cut corners with Orks somewhat since I'll be weathering over top the base color and, especially when you are working up through browns, it can pass as rust or weathering.

 

That said, you got a great result that can work for any army.

 

Out of curiosity, how do you paint the red? I usually use a similar approach for that also (dark to light, with browns as a base)



#720
Sukigod

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Out of curiosity, how do you paint the red? I usually use a similar approach for that also (dark to light, with browns as a base)

 

Thanks!

 

In my experience, the base reds from Citadel do a fantastic job against black primer so I've never felt the need to come up through the browns. The Mephiston Red works well as the base for me.