Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Posted 14 December 2012 - 09:25 AM
Posted 15 December 2012 - 05:42 AM
Posted 16 December 2012 - 06:14 PM
It certainly is an interesting looking technique. Makes me wish I still had my minidrill.
The only downside I can see from my point of view is the rate it eats through the plastic rod. I can't get that cheaply round here.
you can search for plastic lollipop sticks. dirt cheap, and (make sure you ask the seller to be sure) usually polystyrene. they're between 4 and 5mm thick, and very good for structural props in builds - and undoubtably, for welding. the link i've put in are polystyrene, and they glue up fine for me. you can also heat them carefully with a lighter to make good bent piping like on the side of my big lumpy battlewagon.
7th edition Orks W/D/L 4/0/0
Posted 18 December 2012 - 11:48 AM
Posted 22 December 2012 - 12:37 AM
Posted 26 May 2014 - 12:04 AM
Thanks for putting this up Sukigod.
I like how strong that weld is.
With some practice, experimentation, and maybe smaller styrene rods I bet you could make some appropriately orky welds with it, rough looking but strong, that are small enough to make sense scale wise. (for those of us who like welds anyway.) Though big welds like that might work well on buildings and super heavies, or anything welded an oversize crane, trukk, or dread mounted welding device.
You can also weld plastic with a soldering iron, me thinks.. no idea how much fumes you get, though.
In my experience, a soldering Iron is too hot. It tends to melt the the plastic too quickly and to aggressively to do much welding.
If your going to use a soldering iron to melt plastic make sure you use a crappy cheap as dirt "abuse iron" for that, not the slightly (or much depending on what you use) better soldering iron you use for actual soldering. Burned on melted plastic is a bitch to clean off your soldering tip and forms a carbon layer that insulates the tip somewhat making it much harder and more frustrating to try to melt solder with it.
You CAN scrape the baked on carbon char off the tip, after you've unplugged the iron and let it cool off, to get it working again but it takes a while and is frustrating and probably isn't doing your soldering tip life any favors.
Wot? *strokes chin* hmmmm.