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Da Squigwigz--Questions on Bits and using Quickshade

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53 replies to this topic

#21
Boss Badgrub

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Apparently I have the newer kit. I will test fit the arms then glue them on after painting. Thanks, derry.


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#22
Mad Grot Docsnik

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There's two common schools of thought: build then paint or build and paint. The latter avoids struggling with hard to reach places and derry is da boss at dealing with masses of pieces. While the former declares that hard to reach places aren't worth struggling with because you can't see them anyway. I find myself in the build then paint camp most of the time. Especially boyz, where there's so many of them I can't be arsed to paint the bitz that no one sees. However "show" pieces get the build and paint treatment. Like my grot fighta-bomma where I detailed the cockpit and painted the pilot grot replete with flyer's scarf before gluing on the canopy (which obscures much of the lovingly applied detail).


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Orks -- comic relief in the grim darkness of the far future.

"Unfortunately, there is no way of enforcing a rule that sigs should be genuinely witty or profound." -- Oddballz.

A wise grot knowz da roolz of Da Waaagh and obeyz dem.

#23
Boss Badgrub

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So I think I'm definitely going to go with the Brownish paint scheme. Largely because it makes the Ork hair the focus, but also because it means I can make Da Squigwigz match these:

gw-age-of-sigmar-ironjawz-gork-mork-dice

 

Guys, I think I'm way more excited about having dice that match my Kill Team than I should be. Am I a weirdo?

 

Second, what about earbud foam covers for doing Ork Afros?

 

51Tpgv5Mf6L.jpg


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#24
PointBlank

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PCi6fiE.jpg

 

I don't have any foam buds, but judging by the jelly buds and the 'ard case bud, I think they might be just too big. Maaaaybe just one boy out of the whole squad who just got carried away. If you're ordering off the Internet, you'd probably be best going for the greenstuff option. As it's essentially just a simple ball with a few small holes poked in it for texture, it seems as good an introduction to GS as anything else.

 

Related, I'm sure a simple flat Mohawk can be made by cutting the right shape out of a piece of cardboard. Maybe several of the same shape stuck together. Or a useless plastic card sent as spam. The bonus is that it'll act as a fine structural support if you ever want go back later with greenstuff.


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#25
Boss Badgrub

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Yep, you're right. Those look way too big. I'll go the Greenstuff or Cottonball route, then. Since the fist motif is often prominent in Ork designs (Like in the boss poles pictured) I wonder if I can come up with something to play off of the Black Power style Afro pick on one of the boyz for a fun reference?

 

Ork_Warboss.gif



#26
Boss Badgrub

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Alright, friends. From here on out this is going to be my Work In Progress Blog for Da Squigwigz. I'll try to post images as I go along.

 

I've got two images at the moment. The first is a picture is a size comparison for Kromlech's running Orc torso since there was some question about that up thread:sbPigL8.jpg

 

From Left to Right: Ork Boy Torso and Legs on 25mm Base (GW Boyz Kit), Kromlech Running Orc Body on 25mm Base (Kromlech Conversion bit), Ork Kommando w/ Big Shoota on 25mm base (OOP GW Blister Kit)

 

The Second Image is a bigger version of the Kommando. That's my best attempt at giving him an Afro. I modeled it on the way Questlove often wears his hair. I'm hoping to figure out greenstuff so I can add a pick. We'll see how that goes. The hair actually came from "sculpting" some packing foam. It was puffy and I just added the part to it.

 

rWsRkal.jpg



#27
Mad Grot Docsnik

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I would cut the pick out of thin p-card. GS will likely give you too soft an edge as it relaxes a bit while curing (unless you work it right up til the end of its work time). So it's really better suited to organic and soft features like hair as opposed to hard features like gunz.

 

***EDIT*** just trying to save you some of the time and frustration that my early experiences with gs gave me.


Orks -- comic relief in the grim darkness of the far future.

"Unfortunately, there is no way of enforcing a rule that sigs should be genuinely witty or profound." -- Oddballz.

A wise grot knowz da roolz of Da Waaagh and obeyz dem.

#28
Boss Badgrub

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I appreciate the advice. I'd rather not bang my head against the wall trying to Greenstuff it if it's not going to work. I'll see if I can find some thin card and cut the shape with a hobby knife.

#29
PointBlank

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Don't forget spraypaint will melt foam but otherwise that might actually work. It's a pretty good shape.



#30
Boss Badgrub

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Crap, that's glued on. Looks like I'll have to try and remove it before priming. Thanks for the heads up. If nothing else I hope you guys are getting a good laugh out of all my newbie mistakes. ;)

#31
derry

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You can always fully coat the hair in paint on primer first, or a layer of white glue, to protect the hair from melting.


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#32
Boss Badgrub

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I don't have paint on primer, but I do have PVA glue. I will give it a try.
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#33
Boss Badgrub

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I'm still waiting on my Spellcrow Slayer heads to come in the mail, but in the meantime I'm continuing to work on my boys. Here's a few pictures to give you guys an idea of what I've been up to:

 

5HqzJpC.jpg

 

These are just two of the guys I've put together so far. I've drilled out everyone's slugga barrells because I thought it looked nice.

 

dCxoa3h.jpg

 

This guy I gave Squigtails. Seemed like a fun idea.

 

48lCDvo.jpg

 

Pompadour. All Credit to PointBlank for this idea.

 

Three Pictures at my First Attempt with Green Stuff:

 

LJixPTn.jpg

 

LBSBwvr.jpg

 

NAjcupl.jpg

 

I gave this Ork dreadlocks. Since I posed him like he was sprinting, I tried to have the dreadlocks blowing back in the wind. I tried to texture the hair with a toothpick and the back of my hobby knife, but when I came back after letting it dry for a bit it looked like some of the texturing was lost as it cured. You can still see some of it though.  I think it came out okay overall for a first attempt.

 

 

Is this bit supposed to be a bayonet for a shoota or something? I've been trying to figure out what the heck it is for, exactly:

 

LansfMA.jpg

 

Finally I give you my first attempt at painting I wanted to do a single guy to see if I liked the scheme before I committed to doing it with all my boyz:

 

The model is only basecoated and I definitely need to go back for touch ups, but I figured I'd show what I've done so far to get feedback. You can't tell in the pictures for some reason, but I definitely drilled his slugga:

Y7IwsPx.jpg

 

ZsRc2iE.jpg

 

wQwzr2r.jpg

 

So here's the color breakdown:

Clothes/Wristbands = Zandri Dust Primer

Belts/Pouches/Shoes = Mournfang Brown

Skin = Warboss Green

Silver Metal = Leadbelcher

Gold Metal =Balthasar Gold

Teeth/Fingernails/decorations = Ushabti Bone

Hair/Loincloth/Eyes = Mephiston Red

 

It did bring up a few questions I'd like to ask you guys:

 

Shading: So, what shade should I do for this? I was thinking about Athonian Camoshade for the green since it's a more earthy green and might tie the skin in with the browns a little better, but what shade should I use for the browns? Should I go with Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia? I have both. I also have the Army Painter Strong Tone Quickshade as well.

 

Priming: So I primed this dude all on his lonesome, but how is it best to prime when I do the whole lot of boyz? Is there a good setup to ensuring they all get good coverage? I'd like to prime them en masse since doing just the one guy seemed like it wasted some paint. What about priming the loose arms from the shootas? How is that best handled?

 

Basing: How should I base these guys? What would look best color-wise? Should I do urban or would something else look better?

 

Beards:  Encouraged by my attempt at dreadlocks, I've made two attempts at beards now and both turned out to be awful. Pretty much just a waste of greenstuff. I'll probably make another attempt, but I think it might involve turning a topknot upside down, trimming off some bits and fitting it to the Ork's chin with greenstuff.



#34
Beingmad

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It did bring up a few questions I'd like to ask you guys:

 

Shading: So, what shade should I do for this? I was thinking about Athonian Camoshade for the green since it's a more earthy green and might tie the skin in with the browns a little better, but what shade should I use for the browns? Should I go with Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia? I have both. I also have the Army Painter Strong Tone Quickshade as well.

 

Priming: So I primed this dude all on his lonesome, but how is it best to prime when I do the whole lot of boyz? Is there a good setup to ensuring they all get good coverage? I'd like to prime them en masse since doing just the one guy seemed like it wasted some paint. What about priming the loose arms from the shootas? How is that best handled?

 

Basing: How should I base these guys? What would look best color-wise? Should I do urban or would something else look better?

 

Beards:  Encouraged by my attempt at dreadlocks, I've made two attempts at beards now and both turned out to be awful. Pretty much just a waste of greenstuff. I'll probably make another attempt, but I think it might involve turning a topknot upside down, trimming off some bits and fitting it to the Ork's chin with greenstuff.

Shading - I quite like (and use liberally) the Army Painter strong tone, which I believe is quite similar to Agrax Earthshade (and closer still to the old Delvan Mud that GW made in the past). Its a quality paint that does well going over everything, even ork skin. You mention Athonian Camoshade for the earthy feel, I would probably recommend trying the Strong Tone and the Camoshade on the skin, and seeing which you like the most. When I paint my skin, I use a very dark base, followed by a lighter green, a heavy wash of the Strong Tone, and then a highlight of the original lighter shade. You could effectively use the Strong Tone (or Agrax Earthshade) on the entire model, as it compliments all of your original colors.

Of course, the great thing about washes/shades is you can experiment quite a bit and get great results.

Priming - Priming en masse is generally how you would want to go about it. Get a group of boyz lined up, start spraying to the side of the boys (so you aren't starting the spray directly on a model, but into the air), and gracefully move back and forth over the line to get even coverage. Generally you want to avoid directly pointing and spraying, instead you want to always have the can moving as you spray. For loose arms, you could get a bit of sticky tack, place it on the joint, and then stick it to a plastic knife, or something similar. Spray on in a similar process to the boyz, let dry, flip, and do the other side. 

There are a lot of schools of thought on priming. This general approach has worked for me in the past, however at the moment I prime by hand using a Vallejo brush on primer - I live in a hostile environment for spray priming haha.

Basing - I think a desert biome could definitely work for you, but it could end up being too much yellow/brown because of the choice in cloth on your guys. With all the crazy hair and dreads, I think a jungle look would be baller, if you're ambitious. 


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#35
Boss Badgrub

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Jungle sounds interesting. What's the best way to pull that off? Grasses and things?

Also, is the little bottle of Strong Tone shiny like the stuff in the can?

#36
Beingmad

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Jungle sounds interesting. What's the best way to pull that off? Grasses and things?

Also, is the little bottle of Strong Tone shiny like the stuff in the can?

The final effect (bottle vs can) is very, very, very similar from everything I've read online, but using it is different - bottle is brush on (put some drops on your pallete, brush it on) whereas the you actually dip the models in the can, then let them dry. I just brush the bottle stuff on (because I don't use it on certain colors) but I have considered using the dip-can method. Might be worth googling around to compare the process and results.

I had a certain vision in my head for basing, and after doing some googling this video has results that align with those visions.



Another one, with little bits of jungle flora.



I'm not that great with basing, I wish I had more confidence to experiment with it more. 


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#37
Ryan

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nice to see someone else using those running bodys :thumbs  i thought some of the legs were a bit thin in places an packed mine out with greenstuff (but yours actually look ok painted) 

for the afro hair have you tried greenstuff? blob of it pushed onto the head, then either use a pin (jab it to death) or a tooth brush (push the brissles into it) you should get a nice effect 

im coming close to actually painting some of mine  :eek  i would love to see someone do a comparison between the quickshade inks an dip...........if not ill probably end up doing it myself when i have the time 


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#38
Boss Badgrub

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Yeah, I really like the Kromlech running bodies. They fit in quite nicely with the official GW stuff and actually required less cleanup of mould lines than the plastic bits. I hope the heads from Spellcrow are as good as Kromlech's stuff.

Thanks for the basing tutorials. Those look great. I may try that out, but I will probably do something simpler just because I am already slightly over my budget for the project, so I think I should probably stick with what I have on hand.

I'll try and get that sample paint job done over the weekend and post up some pictures of it.

#39
Mad Grot Docsnik

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Your dreads are good for a first-time out with GS. IIRC work time with GS should be about an hour (it's been a really long time since I've bought GS). So don't be afraid to let it sit a bit before you start working with. It's stickiest right after mixing, so do your attaching to the head early and then give a few minutes before shaping and then maybe a few more before adding fine details. After you've done a few projects you will have a good sense of what state your GS is in without looking at the clock. The closer you get to the end of your work time the harder it will be to shape the GS but the better it will hold that shape.

 

I did an article about putties eons ago. It has some useful general info. It's linked in in the Oilaz Blooprintz which is pinned to the top of the M.G. It might give you some ideas of what to expect in your learning experience.

 

I like the dreads. Keep trying on the beards, It'll come to you. Useful sculpting tools are toothpicks and pins and paperclips and a toothbrush for texturing.

 

Thoughts on basing...

Desert or gravel wasteland are certainly the easiest (which is why my Waaagh is based this way!)

Jungle takes some effort and looks really cool and adds lots of wow factor for your models.

Urban can be widely varied from very simple, flat pavement to extremely complex rubble and cast-off equipment. It is also (it seems to me) the terrain you're most likely to be playing on for Shadow Wars.


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Orks -- comic relief in the grim darkness of the far future.

"Unfortunately, there is no way of enforcing a rule that sigs should be genuinely witty or profound." -- Oddballz.

A wise grot knowz da roolz of Da Waaagh and obeyz dem.

#40
Boss Badgrub

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Yeah, I did the Greenstuff within about 15 minutes of mixing it together. I will let it sit longer next time before I try working it.

Thanks for the compliments. It's encouraging. I know it's far from great, but I am happy with it overall considering it was a first attempt. I will give the beards another go when I have the chance. I will definitely read your article before I do.

I touched up my sample model and washed the whole thing with Agrax Earthshade. I'm currently waiting for it to dry. The wash gave the whole model a really dingy look. I really like that. I'll probably lightly drybrush some highlights on tomorrow evening, especially on the hair. I really want it to stand out.