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Anyone using matt or non-metallic metals for weapons?

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4 replies to this topic



    Mendin' Squig

  • Grotz
  • 73 posts

I am only about 6 boyz deep in my effort and I am pretty frustrated with my weapons. I have pretty much been painting them black and drybrushing heavily with leadbelcher then adding some flare here and there up until now. Problem is every time I drybrush the weapons, which usually comes near the end, I get little metallic flecks all over the miniature and have to go back and remove them or paint over them. Giving some serious consideration to doing them in a more mat finish with dark gray or something. Maybe have to add a step then and paint on the metal worn edges here and there?

Kinda at a loss.



    Grot Oiler

  • Boyz
  • 168 posts
  • Army Name:Dr Orkenstein's Revenge!
Never saw thwpe point to painting non metallic metals, lot of extra time and effort for no improvement in how the miniature looks.

However, your actual problem has two fair simplier solutions

1) Paint your weapons first, any area with drybrushing is messy so if I intend to uae thw technique, those tend to be the areas I paint first.

2) Don't drybrush, paint leadbelcher, wash with nuln oil and the edge highlight back in with either leadbelcher or runefang steel

Badfang Brassaxe

Badfang Brassaxe


  • Boyz
  • 2,561 posts
  • Army Name:Da Perfeshunelz

Much as Lucio says, NMM is a bit of a one trick pony which is very labour intensive and needs to be done very well in order to imitate something that is metallic anyway, there's also a touch of 'Trompe-l'oeil' about it in that it can look horribly wrong from the wrong direction. The two options for metallics that I use are


Pre-shading the metal areas first, for Ork stuff usually I use a black/brown/white spray primers (black all over, brown from about 45o from vertical and then white sprayed from above the top of the model) metallic bits get a bit of 'pre-rust' applied in brown/red/yellowish colours and are finally painted over with very thinly mixed metallic paints.


Or, prime as before but paint the bits that are going to be metal with a thin 'sloppybrush' of gunmetal/tinbitz/brass/copper metallics letting the colours run into each other, leave it to dry for a day or two and then wash with a thinned burnt umber/burnt sienna oil wash, wiping any highlight spots with a bit of rag to make them shinier. And then wait a day or two for that to dry.



    Mendin' Squig

  • Grotz
  • 73 posts

Thanks guys. I think I am going to go with the paint it on then wash approach. I don't like doing the guns first since I will inevitably get other paint on them as I work in behind for the chest area and belt buckles and such.


Back to work for me then.



    Ban Stikk Target

  • Grot Rebelz
  • 5,151 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Durham City, UK
  • Army Name:Trotskin'z Revulushun

I know I'm late to the party, but if you want to drybrush still, I find doing that to suggest weathering works well. Starting with Warplock Bronze, and Jokaero Orange in other bits to alternate textures, you can do a reasonable effect. It's how I do many of my metal bits, because basically I suck at it.


Only picture I have that is helpful is a bit shit but here goes:




Good pictures happen to other people. But there's the gist: cover most flat areas with Warplock/Tin Bitz/Other Rusty Colour etc. Pick out some exotic or stand-out features and paint those Jokaero Orange (here I've picked the wavy metal plates) then drybrush the whole thing Leadbelcher. Then apply inks, using browns and blacks (vary brown and black over the Warplock areas to give individual metal surfaces a bit of variety.


Obviously for smaller stuff like weapons, just pick small patches to do Jokaero (or use a layer orange), and do it over the Warplock base. I did this with my GoMo Grots (but the pictures are even worse) if you want to have a look at weapons specifically. But the principle is simple enough.


I find that if I struggle with metal, I tend to look for a good complementary non-metallic base to build up from and that can help.



As far as NMM goes, it's a perfectly valid approach (although more about showing off artistic still than being practical) but it doesn't fit that well for 40k in virtually all cases. It's an approach much better reserved for fantasy-style models where it delivers a nice effect.