IPB



Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

3 Pages V  < 1 2 3 >  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Trying and Discussing the New Paints, ...this is the thread for it!
Agatheron
post Apr 16 2012, 05:26 PM
Post #21


Blue Thunda Ace
Group Icon

Group: Nobz
Posts: 6,315
Joined: 6-July 03
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Member No.: 32



I have a photobox that I haven't had a chance to set up yet. These were in progress shots using a daylight lamp at nearly point blank range and my iPhone camera... so no, not ideal conditions. smilingOrk.gif


--------------------
______Agatheron \_______
--Remember, long, uncontrolled bursts,
and indiscriminate target selection.
____________________________/


http://chaplainsbrush.wordpress.com/
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
mr_maxime
post Apr 16 2012, 11:13 PM
Post #22


'Ard Boy
Group Icon

Group: Freebooterz
Posts: 864
Joined: 14-June 05
From: Acworth, GA, USA
Member No.: 1,457



The changes look way too subtle in the pictures, especially on the sail.


--------------------
here's why my orks are blue. they have an intense hatred of historical recording of any kind which results in none of them knowing why they're blue. because of this, anytime anyone questions the origin of their skintone they waste no time adding the inquirer's head to their bosspole. no one will ever know why these orks are blue, as merely asking about it is a death wish. in the end there will be only 3 types of people left, the blue orks, those who don't want to know the history of the blue skin, and the dead.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
MaddaMek
post Apr 17 2012, 09:34 AM
Post #23


Gargant Krew
Group Icon

Group: Deathskullz
Posts: 2,767
Joined: 4-December 07
From: Warsaw in PROPPAland
Member No.: 5,783



I think laying flat piece (sail?) on sheet of paper would be good enough.


--------------------
6th edition army test:
Can You shoot back at triple Heldrake, quad Scythe list?


Moldmaking tutorials [part 1] [part2]
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Agatheron
post Apr 17 2012, 10:09 AM
Post #24


Blue Thunda Ace
Group Icon

Group: Nobz
Posts: 6,315
Joined: 6-July 03
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Member No.: 32



A challenge I have been having with these pictures and some more recent ones I took its my photo box is that the white balance was so off, that all the blending/gradient detail was lost. Some of it is supposed to be subtle, but in some cases it's so subtle, the camera isn't catching what my eye is!

I need to get my camera set up working well if I am going to take pictures of the Orks in progress! smilingOrk.gif


--------------------
______Agatheron \_______
--Remember, long, uncontrolled bursts,
and indiscriminate target selection.
____________________________/


http://chaplainsbrush.wordpress.com/
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Agatheron
post Apr 17 2012, 03:57 PM
Post #25


Blue Thunda Ace
Group Icon

Group: Nobz
Posts: 6,315
Joined: 6-July 03
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Member No.: 32



Here's another, albeit different test with the new paints.

My 6-year old daughter painted these from the Starter set:


When painting, I had her use the bases Leadbelcher, Incubi Darkness, and Celestra Grey which are in addition to the 8 paints that come in the set... but as you can see, the results for a 6-year old are pretty damned good.


--------------------
______Agatheron \_______
--Remember, long, uncontrolled bursts,
and indiscriminate target selection.
____________________________/


http://chaplainsbrush.wordpress.com/
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
MaddaMek
post Apr 19 2012, 03:00 AM
Post #26


Gargant Krew
Group Icon

Group: Deathskullz
Posts: 2,767
Joined: 4-December 07
From: Warsaw in PROPPAland
Member No.: 5,783



I saw Your Boyz, I see Your girl work. I think latter would look really good after smearing "liquid talent" all over it.

I wonder if something like that would work:
Chaos black basecoat
"Wide angle zenith" (ie. sprayed from 90-45 degree angle) from some gray paint
"Narrow angle zenith" (like 90-80 degree) from white
black wash

Layer paints or "ink mix" painted with brush.

Basically something like preshading + blacklining, abusing fact that new paints are more or less transparent.

Quick and easy.


--------------------
6th edition army test:
Can You shoot back at triple Heldrake, quad Scythe list?


Moldmaking tutorials [part 1] [part2]
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Agatheron
post Apr 19 2012, 10:04 AM
Post #27


Blue Thunda Ace
Group Icon

Group: Nobz
Posts: 6,315
Joined: 6-July 03
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Member No.: 32



I'd say it'd be worth a try. If you don't like it, you can always repaint the model. smilingOrk.gif

I'm still working on the Dreadfleet ships as well. I expect that I will get the Ork teeth and then some more work done on the four remaining ships. The Ork experiment was an exercise in seeing how fast the new "system" is. I didn't intend for them to be Golden Daemon quality, but I can put these beside some of my Goffs that have won best painted at a tournament for comparison.


--------------------
______Agatheron \_______
--Remember, long, uncontrolled bursts,
and indiscriminate target selection.
____________________________/


http://chaplainsbrush.wordpress.com/
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
mr_maxime
post Apr 19 2012, 09:10 PM
Post #28


'Ard Boy
Group Icon

Group: Freebooterz
Posts: 864
Joined: 14-June 05
From: Acworth, GA, USA
Member No.: 1,457



Did you get the new metallics? I'm interested in how gold and bronze behave.


--------------------
here's why my orks are blue. they have an intense hatred of historical recording of any kind which results in none of them knowing why they're blue. because of this, anytime anyone questions the origin of their skintone they waste no time adding the inquirer's head to their bosspole. no one will ever know why these orks are blue, as merely asking about it is a death wish. in the end there will be only 3 types of people left, the blue orks, those who don't want to know the history of the blue skin, and the dead.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Agatheron
post Apr 20 2012, 10:51 AM
Post #29


Blue Thunda Ace
Group Icon

Group: Nobz
Posts: 6,315
Joined: 6-July 03
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Member No.: 32



I have all of the four new metallic bases, and the two metallic dry compounds, but just two of the layer metallics (Ironbreaker and Runelord Brass). The bases cover well, and they have threaded benefit that other metallics will stick to them quite easily. The reality is, there's a whole lot more choice in terms of getting certain metallic looks with this new range.

Unlike the other paints however, it seems that one is more likely to apply the first layer prior to applying a shade... But then again people are free to try all manner of combinations to see what sorts of looks they can get. It used to be that your base choices were tin bits and bolt gun, but now even the bases upon which one applies your metallics have more choices. I plan on using them with the burnaboyz test.


--------------------
______Agatheron \_______
--Remember, long, uncontrolled bursts,
and indiscriminate target selection.
____________________________/


http://chaplainsbrush.wordpress.com/
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
mr_maxime
post Apr 20 2012, 08:52 PM
Post #30


'Ard Boy
Group Icon

Group: Freebooterz
Posts: 864
Joined: 14-June 05
From: Acworth, GA, USA
Member No.: 1,457



I was browsing through them today, didnt realize there were metallic bases, layers and dry compounds though. I did find an amazing shade of purple that matched one I had been mixing myself for a while though.


--------------------
here's why my orks are blue. they have an intense hatred of historical recording of any kind which results in none of them knowing why they're blue. because of this, anytime anyone questions the origin of their skintone they waste no time adding the inquirer's head to their bosspole. no one will ever know why these orks are blue, as merely asking about it is a death wish. in the end there will be only 3 types of people left, the blue orks, those who don't want to know the history of the blue skin, and the dead.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Monsieurjuneau
post Apr 23 2012, 09:01 AM
Post #31


Mushling


Group: Grotz
Posts: 39
Joined: 10-March 12
Member No.: 12,990



I tried out the Agrax Earthshade wash the other day. It seems a tad thinner than Devlan Mud, so I was quite liberal with how much I used. However, I noticed that in some of the deeper areas where more of the wash had "sunk in", it had dried with a slightly white cloudiness. Has anyone else noticed this?

Bit of a hassle since I used Devlan Mud quite a bit to shade my boys en masse, and it looks like with this new wash I'll have to apply multiple thin layers to achieve the same effect as one thicker layer of Devlan, which will increases my workload substantially.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Agatheron
post Apr 24 2012, 11:48 PM
Post #32


Blue Thunda Ace
Group Icon

Group: Nobz
Posts: 6,315
Joined: 6-July 03
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Member No.: 32



QUOTE (Monsieurjuneau @ Apr 23 2012, 08:01 AM) *
I tried out the Agrax Earthshade wash the other day. It seems a tad thinner than Devlan Mud, so I was quite liberal with how much I used. However, I noticed that in some of the deeper areas where more of the wash had "sunk in", it had dried with a slightly white cloudiness. Has anyone else noticed this?

Bit of a hassle since I used Devlan Mud quite a bit to shade my boys en masse, and it looks like with this new wash I'll have to apply multiple thin layers to achieve the same effect as one thicker layer of Devlan, which will increases my workload substantially.


I've not had any issue with Agrax Earthshade... on the other hand, I had plenty of issues with the older Leviathan Purple doing as you've said, as well as the Vallejo Washes. So far, the shades are performing very well with no clouding issue... I don't think you need to be all that liberal with the wash, because the excess will simply run off the model... at least that's what they say in the video. There's an upper limit on how much you can really apply anyway before gravity overcomes the surface tension of the shade...


--------------------
______Agatheron \_______
--Remember, long, uncontrolled bursts,
and indiscriminate target selection.
____________________________/


http://chaplainsbrush.wordpress.com/
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
mr_maxime
post Apr 24 2012, 11:53 PM
Post #33


'Ard Boy
Group Icon

Group: Freebooterz
Posts: 864
Joined: 14-June 05
From: Acworth, GA, USA
Member No.: 1,457



Have any of yours been coming with the new lids? None of mine have that clip that holds the lip open.


--------------------
here's why my orks are blue. they have an intense hatred of historical recording of any kind which results in none of them knowing why they're blue. because of this, anytime anyone questions the origin of their skintone they waste no time adding the inquirer's head to their bosspole. no one will ever know why these orks are blue, as merely asking about it is a death wish. in the end there will be only 3 types of people left, the blue orks, those who don't want to know the history of the blue skin, and the dead.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Monsieurjuneau
post Apr 25 2012, 04:52 AM
Post #34


Mushling


Group: Grotz
Posts: 39
Joined: 10-March 12
Member No.: 12,990



Yeah, my Agrax has the little clip. To be honest, it kinda irritates me since I like to close the lid of my pot while applying washes to prevent it from drying out.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Agatheron
post Apr 25 2012, 01:07 PM
Post #35


Blue Thunda Ace
Group Icon

Group: Nobz
Posts: 6,315
Joined: 6-July 03
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Member No.: 32



All the shades seem to have the new lids, as does Abaddon Black... the shade lids work well, the abaddon black I have to fiddle with a bit...


--------------------
______Agatheron \_______
--Remember, long, uncontrolled bursts,
and indiscriminate target selection.
____________________________/


http://chaplainsbrush.wordpress.com/
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
mr_maxime
post May 9 2012, 11:32 PM
Post #36


'Ard Boy
Group Icon

Group: Freebooterz
Posts: 864
Joined: 14-June 05
From: Acworth, GA, USA
Member No.: 1,457



Has anyone tried the glazes so far?


--------------------
here's why my orks are blue. they have an intense hatred of historical recording of any kind which results in none of them knowing why they're blue. because of this, anytime anyone questions the origin of their skintone they waste no time adding the inquirer's head to their bosspole. no one will ever know why these orks are blue, as merely asking about it is a death wish. in the end there will be only 3 types of people left, the blue orks, those who don't want to know the history of the blue skin, and the dead.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Agatheron
post May 10 2012, 10:37 PM
Post #37


Blue Thunda Ace
Group Icon

Group: Nobz
Posts: 6,315
Joined: 6-July 03
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Member No.: 32



I have... both blue and green. The green I used on the Lootas skin... I like how it looks. Go check out the thread...


--------------------
______Agatheron \_______
--Remember, long, uncontrolled bursts,
and indiscriminate target selection.
____________________________/


http://chaplainsbrush.wordpress.com/
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
mr_maxime
post May 11 2012, 06:56 PM
Post #38


'Ard Boy
Group Icon

Group: Freebooterz
Posts: 864
Joined: 14-June 05
From: Acworth, GA, USA
Member No.: 1,457



I checked it out, but I was wondering about them being used on non-similar colors like they mentioned in the GW video.


--------------------
here's why my orks are blue. they have an intense hatred of historical recording of any kind which results in none of them knowing why they're blue. because of this, anytime anyone questions the origin of their skintone they waste no time adding the inquirer's head to their bosspole. no one will ever know why these orks are blue, as merely asking about it is a death wish. in the end there will be only 3 types of people left, the blue orks, those who don't want to know the history of the blue skin, and the dead.
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Agatheron
post May 13 2012, 11:04 AM
Post #39


Blue Thunda Ace
Group Icon

Group: Nobz
Posts: 6,315
Joined: 6-July 03
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Member No.: 32



They can be used over anything. I tried using the red glaze over the green, which produced an interesting effect in pushing the green to a more brownish look... but it wasn't the look I was going for. There's lots of experimenting room with the new glazes.


--------------------
______Agatheron \_______
--Remember, long, uncontrolled bursts,
and indiscriminate target selection.
____________________________/


http://chaplainsbrush.wordpress.com/
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post
Spacecat
post May 13 2012, 09:47 PM
Post #40


Gyro Stabilised Monowheel


Group: Boyz
Posts: 536
Joined: 28-April 12
From: Canada
Member No.: 13,070



I just bought and used a pot of the new 'texture' stuff. Thought I'd share my experience with you guys.
Since my orks are fairly desert-y in theme, I picked the lightest color, Armageddon dust. It's a medium-dark tan color with a tinge of greenish in it, so I'd describe it as a mix of chemical runoff and sand. I haven't tried it for basing, was more looking for a quick and dirty (Literally! laughingOrk.gif) way to put mud on my vehicles. Here's my 'Flamer Hummer' with that texture paint:

Attached File  hummer3.jpg ( 101.22K ) Number of downloads: 15
Attached File  hummer4.jpg ( 219.46K ) Number of downloads: 14
Attached File  hummer5.jpg ( 128.65K ) Number of downloads: 9


The vehicle was primed in Army painter 'Pure red' (which accounts for most of the paint job as a bonus) and I found out the new layer color 'Evil Sunz Red' is virtually identical. Other colors are the old paint range. When I did a gryphonne sepia wash over the vehicle I touched up the front fender over the mud, I was curious what effect it would give. I'm not happy with it but you can see the result in the first two pictures, maybe it's an effect some of you folks could use. Me I'm too amateurish with paint still.

The Texture paint is -very- thick, it's more a paste so pull up your stiffest, meanest brush to manipulate that stuff, maybe even a coffee stick. One advantage of using a stiff brush over a coffee stick is that besides the sand, the texture paint has a lot of pigment, so you can paint the mud color using the brush (something not so effective with a coffee stick). Also I think you get a more uneven, natural coverage with the rough brush. When dry, the sandy muck sticks very strongly to the model, it won't come off easy. And if you look at the rear plate you'll see it does indeed have a lot of depth and texture.

Overall, I give it a nod and a two thumbs up for putting mud on vehicles. It's quick, dirty and very effective even used by an amateur like me.


--------------------
Topic for my threats and army: http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/?showtopic=51463
A recipe for Stormboyz done differently: www.the-waaagh.com/forums/?showtopic=51279
Go to the top of the page
 
+Quote Post

3 Pages V  < 1 2 3 >
Reply to this topicStart new topic

 



RSS Lo-Fi Version |  Time is now: 20th April 2014 - 09:54 PM