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> How to clean old minis for re-painting
iHateBeekies
post Feb 8 2012, 07:28 AM
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Speckled Bloodshade Fungus


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Hi all!
Long time lurker, very small amount of posting, but work/life get in the way of gaming too much....

Anyway..... I remember ages ago there was a post on how to 'clean-up' old miniatures (lead and plastic) ready for repainting.
I've made a few ebay purchases that could do with this treatment, but I want to get it right, as dissolving mini's isn't much fun.

So, any pointers, you nice friendly killing-machines? smilingOrk.gif
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Tof
post Feb 8 2012, 08:54 AM
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Speckled Bloodshade Fungus


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You can try acetone on metal miniatures.

Some floor cleaning liquid work best on plastic like "Glanzer" if you can purchase it in Sunny England. Brake fuilds can help too.

As these are chemical products, please read the safety instructions first.


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iHateBeekies
post Feb 8 2012, 08:58 AM
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Speckled Bloodshade Fungus


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If floor-cleaning stuff works, I may try some Flash....

And, yep, after getting hot bleach in the eye many years ago, I know to be careful... smilingOrk.gif
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Tof
post Feb 8 2012, 09:01 AM
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Simple Green was the name I was looking for but this is maybe only available in the USA.



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popisdead
post Feb 8 2012, 03:03 PM
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A metal mini soaked in Pinesol overnight is fairly good. Sometimes it takes two cleanings.

Simplegreen (in it's many variants) wont' damage plastics.

When young i used to use nail polish remover for metals.


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iHateBeekies
post Feb 8 2012, 06:57 PM
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Speckled Bloodshade Fungus


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Awesome - thanks guys smilingOrk.gif

Does anyone know of the most similar to 'Simple Green' that would be available in England?
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Taytonclait
post Feb 9 2012, 01:14 AM
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Runtherd
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I just used Simple Green on some metal minis I bought 2nd hand.
I left them soaking in it in a glass jar over a period of a few weeks (had other models to paint and other things to do). I took them out, rinsed out the simple green a few times with water over and over to make sure it was clean, then kept the tap running and used an (old) toothbrush to scrub the metal. The paint came off with very little effort, and only in the deepest sharpest corners was a bit of primer left sticking. A sharp pin or toothpick winkled those out. If you can find something like SG, go for it, I think its much, MUCH less toxic for you than those other chemicals. Industrial solvents are bad, if its designed to tear through anything, it can tear through you.

But I had no idea SG was useful on plastics. A new era has dawned.


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Mad Grot Docsnik
post Feb 9 2012, 01:00 PM
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Simple Green definitely works on both metals and plastics. Better yet it usually does not muck with you minis even if you forget about them and leave them soaking for weeks (note: "usually". I do not recommend soaking more than overnight.) And best yet... it is biodegradeable... i.e. you can rinse it down your sink without fear of killing wildlife or poisoning your neighbors.

For the record, this thread 'ere is the definitive thread on da Waaagh about stripping models.


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iHateBeekies
post Feb 10 2012, 04:30 AM
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Speckled Bloodshade Fungus


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QUOTE (Mad Grot Docsnik @ Feb 9 2012, 06:00 PM) *
For the record, this thread 'ere is the definitive thread on da Waaagh about stripping models.



Thanks Mr Docsnik - Sadly in the Uk so can't get Simple Green - but lots of useful tips on there! smilingOrk.gif
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Fox Box
post Feb 10 2012, 10:16 AM
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A friend of mine swears by Fairy Power Spray.

Personally I've used Dettol in the past (tutorial) but he tells me that the spray is much better. I plan on picking some up any day now (i.e. when I remember whilst at the supermarket).


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Big Mek GobSmash...
post Feb 12 2012, 08:08 AM
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DON't use (like I did) white spirit on plastic..it makes it go all soft…Tesco all-purpouse cleaner works-slowly...


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colinabrett
post Mar 10 2012, 05:48 AM
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I use cellulose thinner on metal models. It's the sort of paint thinner used for car body paint. In Sunny UK, you might be able to get this from car spares shops and bigger chains like Halfords. Oddly, they're not allowed to call it "cellulose thinner" any more, so double check with the sales assistant.

An overnight bath in a glass jar then a scrub with hot soapy water and an old toothbrush generally gets the job done. Don't use cellulose thinner on plastics as they get melted into sludge! This means removing slottabases and any plastic arms, weapons and kit bits before immersing into the thinner.

Colin


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crispy
post Mar 14 2012, 04:50 AM
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+1 for cellulose thinners on metals.

Halfords is the best or it was about 5 years ago when I last bought a milk bottle sized pot for £5! Remove any plastic bits you want to keep, break off the base and soak the body in the thinners for at least 30mins. A lot of the paint will already flake off but use an old toothbrush to remove the rest. Resoak for any remaining areas you'll likely find in deep recesses. Very important to thoroughly wash them afterwards to remove all the thinners (I scrub them with washing up liquid) rinse in cold water and leave to dry on a towel.

Plastics can be cleaned off with oven cleaner but be careful and don't let it sit on the model for too long as it can effect the surface. Best to try out on a bit you don't want to gauge how long your cleaner needs to lift the paint thats been used.


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ARBAL
post Apr 18 2013, 08:48 AM
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Speckled Bloodshade Fungus


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REVELL Aqua Color clean is very good for removing acrylic paints: http://www.coloureddust.com.pl/2012/11/mod...als-part-6.html


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