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Feb 8 2012, 07:28 AM
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#1
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![]() Speckled Bloodshade Fungus Group: Grotz Posts: 20 Joined: 4-February 09 From: 'Sunny' England Member No.: 9,692 |
Hi all!
Long time lurker, very small amount of posting, but work/life get in the way of gaming too much.... Anyway..... I remember ages ago there was a post on how to 'clean-up' old miniatures (lead and plastic) ready for repainting. I've made a few ebay purchases that could do with this treatment, but I want to get it right, as dissolving mini's isn't much fun. So, any pointers, you nice friendly killing-machines? |
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Feb 8 2012, 08:54 AM
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#2
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![]() Speckled Bloodshade Fungus Group: Grotz Posts: 24 Joined: 2-December 08 From: South of France Member No.: 9,316 |
You can try acetone on metal miniatures.
Some floor cleaning liquid work best on plastic like "Glanzer" if you can purchase it in Sunny England. Brake fuilds can help too. As these are chemical products, please read the safety instructions first. -------------------- Tof
2nd Edition Fan |
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Feb 8 2012, 08:58 AM
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#3
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![]() Speckled Bloodshade Fungus Group: Grotz Posts: 20 Joined: 4-February 09 From: 'Sunny' England Member No.: 9,692 |
If floor-cleaning stuff works, I may try some Flash....
And, yep, after getting hot bleach in the eye many years ago, I know to be careful... |
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Feb 8 2012, 09:01 AM
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#4
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![]() Speckled Bloodshade Fungus Group: Grotz Posts: 24 Joined: 2-December 08 From: South of France Member No.: 9,316 |
Simple Green was the name I was looking for but this is maybe only available in the USA.
-------------------- Tof
2nd Edition Fan |
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Feb 8 2012, 03:03 PM
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#5
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![]() telescoping arm Group: Boyz Posts: 499 Joined: 23-January 05 From: Blackwater Park Member No.: 1,115 |
A metal mini soaked in Pinesol overnight is fairly good. Sometimes it takes two cleanings.
Simplegreen (in it's many variants) wont' damage plastics. When young i used to use nail polish remover for metals. -------------------- |
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Feb 8 2012, 06:57 PM
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#6
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![]() Speckled Bloodshade Fungus Group: Grotz Posts: 20 Joined: 4-February 09 From: 'Sunny' England Member No.: 9,692 |
Awesome - thanks guys
Does anyone know of the most similar to 'Simple Green' that would be available in England? |
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Feb 9 2012, 01:14 AM
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#7
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![]() Runtherd Group: Boyz Posts: 288 Joined: 28-November 08 From: Vancouver BC Member No.: 9,298 |
I just used Simple Green on some metal minis I bought 2nd hand.
I left them soaking in it in a glass jar over a period of a few weeks (had other models to paint and other things to do). I took them out, rinsed out the simple green a few times with water over and over to make sure it was clean, then kept the tap running and used an (old) toothbrush to scrub the metal. The paint came off with very little effort, and only in the deepest sharpest corners was a bit of primer left sticking. A sharp pin or toothpick winkled those out. If you can find something like SG, go for it, I think its much, MUCH less toxic for you than those other chemicals. Industrial solvents are bad, if its designed to tear through anything, it can tear through you. But I had no idea SG was useful on plastics. A new era has dawned. -------------------- Smash 'em, Bash em, Skin em alive!!
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Feb 9 2012, 01:00 PM
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#8
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![]() Head Honcho Group: Nobz Posts: 3,476 Joined: 27-February 06 From: da Armpit uda East (NJ) Member No.: 2,231 |
Simple Green definitely works on both metals and plastics. Better yet it usually does not muck with you minis even if you forget about them and leave them soaking for weeks (note: "usually". I do not recommend soaking more than overnight.) And best yet... it is biodegradeable... i.e. you can rinse it down your sink without fear of killing wildlife or poisoning your neighbors.
For the record, this thread 'ere is the definitive thread on da Waaagh about stripping models. -------------------- Orks -- comic relief in the grim darkness of the far future.
"Unfortunately, there is no way of enforcing a rule that sigs should be genuinely witty or profound." -- Oddballz. A wise grot knowz da roolz of Da Waaagh and obeyz dem. |
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Feb 10 2012, 04:30 AM
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#9
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![]() Speckled Bloodshade Fungus Group: Grotz Posts: 20 Joined: 4-February 09 From: 'Sunny' England Member No.: 9,692 |
For the record, this thread 'ere is the definitive thread on da Waaagh about stripping models. Thanks Mr Docsnik - Sadly in the Uk so can't get Simple Green - but lots of useful tips on there! |
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Feb 10 2012, 10:16 AM
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#10
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![]() Grot Rigger Group: Boyz Posts: 178 Joined: 3-October 11 From: Edinburgh, UK Member No.: 12,710 |
A friend of mine swears by Fairy Power Spray.
Personally I've used Dettol in the past (tutorial) but he tells me that the spray is much better. I plan on picking some up any day now (i.e. when I remember whilst at the supermarket). -------------------- |
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Feb 12 2012, 08:08 AM
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#11
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![]() Shoota Boy Group: Boyz Posts: 256 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Da scrapyard (uk) Member No.: 11,394 |
DON't use (like I did) white spirit on plastic..it makes it go all soft…Tesco all-purpouse cleaner works-slowly...
-------------------- Steampunk Zombies with Power Fists. It brings a whole new meaning to the phrase “You are already dead”. "It's not that I have more boyz than you have Beakies, it's that I have more boyz than your Beakies have BULLETS!" |
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Mar 10 2012, 05:48 AM
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#12
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Paint Squig Group: Grotz Posts: 99 Joined: 9-January 06 From: Huntingdon, Cambs, UK Member No.: 2,045 |
I use cellulose thinner on metal models. It's the sort of paint thinner used for car body paint. In Sunny UK, you might be able to get this from car spares shops and bigger chains like Halfords. Oddly, they're not allowed to call it "cellulose thinner" any more, so double check with the sales assistant.
An overnight bath in a glass jar then a scrub with hot soapy water and an old toothbrush generally gets the job done. Don't use cellulose thinner on plastics as they get melted into sludge! This means removing slottabases and any plastic arms, weapons and kit bits before immersing into the thinner. Colin -------------------- "The smartest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he didn't exist."
-- Verbal Kynt, The Usual Suspects |
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Mar 14 2012, 04:50 AM
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#13
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Grot Oiler Group: Boyz Posts: 169 Joined: 19-March 09 From: "At the top in the middle" Member No.: 9,988 |
+1 for cellulose thinners on metals.
Halfords is the best or it was about 5 years ago when I last bought a milk bottle sized pot for £5! Remove any plastic bits you want to keep, break off the base and soak the body in the thinners for at least 30mins. A lot of the paint will already flake off but use an old toothbrush to remove the rest. Resoak for any remaining areas you'll likely find in deep recesses. Very important to thoroughly wash them afterwards to remove all the thinners (I scrub them with washing up liquid) rinse in cold water and leave to dry on a towel. Plastics can be cleaned off with oven cleaner but be careful and don't let it sit on the model for too long as it can effect the surface. Best to try out on a bit you don't want to gauge how long your cleaner needs to lift the paint thats been used. -------------------- "When the pin is removed, Mr Grenade is not your friend!"
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Apr 18 2013, 08:48 AM
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#14
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![]() Speckled Bloodshade Fungus Group: Grotz Posts: 18 Joined: 18-September 12 From: POLAND Member No.: 13,374 |
REVELL Aqua Color clean is very good for removing acrylic paints: http://www.coloureddust.com.pl/2012/11/mod...als-part-6.html
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Lo-Fi Version | | Time is now: 25th May 2013 - 07:55 AM |