Discussing Glue, Best brands and types... all types Options

[Agatheron]

I figure it was a good idea to start up a thread covering various types of glue and their uses, plus some recent new innovations (seriously) in the realm of glues.

In terms of categories, there are plastic solvent-type glues for plastic, Cyanoacrylate or "super" glues, PVA glues, and various resin epoxy types.

Plastic/Polystyrene Glue
Plastic glue isn't really a glue, but a solvent that dissolves plastic temporarily so that two plastic services melt, and then bond together when the glue dries. In terms of brands, I tend to favour either Humbrol or Testor's Model-master glue. They are somewhat more liquidy than the standard GW brand. These two brands have a thin metal tube for accurate application. It's the type I lilke. In terms of the one to avoid, the testors tube... avoid. It's too thick, stringy, yucky and otherwise a disaster waiting to happen.

There are super-thin polystyrenes that work really well. They do require a bit more care, and are better suited for larger polystyrene models.

Cyanoacrylates
Super glues have been around for a long time, all different consistencies. The super-thin ones are very challenging (and even hazardous) to work with, and there are others that simply don't seem to bond well quick enough. I'm not fond of the GW super-glue for this reason. Up until now I've used Insta-Bond, or Zap-A-Gap. However, I have just discovered that the Gorilla Glue company has released their own version of Super-glue that actually counts as a new innovation. Most superglues bond quickly, and dry with a decent bond. However, super-glues have a very low tolerance to shearing. The new Gorilla Superglue includes an additive of microscopic resin balls that give the glue resistance to shear strength. I've found that it dries faster, and stronger than standard superglues. My money is on this one.

PVA Glue
Generic white glue. The drawback is that standard PVA can dissolve in water. I tend to prefer using matte medium as a PVA glue substitute for doing basing and such. Brands differ from country to country...

Epoxy
5 Minute Epoxy is good for joining large resin parts together, but it is tricky to use. The bond is very good, very solid... but it's always a 2 part mix. Careful with this stuff. Related to this is standard Gorilla glue. DON'T use this stuff for modelling, EVER. It is good, and extremely strong... but it expands while drying and will never break... so unless you're building something really large, avoid the standard gorilla glue.

That's my start. What do others think?

[mr_maxime]

i second not using super thin super glue, unless you want a collection of models stuck to your arm.

When it comes to super glue, I get the 12pack or so of small tubes from home depot. I think its the cheapest by volume. I also like it since it seems that super glue goes "bad" and does not glue as well. The small tubes lead to less wasted glue when that happens.

If using super glue, baking soda can be used as an accelerator and for quick gap filling. Its a very exothermic reaction though and it melted my instantmold. I still have to experiment with a water/baking soda mix which is easier to apply than the powder form.

[eddie the troll]

I also use

Liquid Solvent
This is a 'paint on' solvent such as EMA Plastic Weld which you can apply to both surfaces to be glued like a thin paint and then hold them together to fix. It bonds rapidly, and can be trickled into cracks or joints to seal them.

One other use is to remove mould lines in those hard to get places by gently painting small areas and using the brush to scrub the mould line off as the solvent melts it.

Hot Melt
DO NOT USE ON MINIS
I use this to give a rapid self supporting bond to pieces in LARGE models. Provided it's used on the inside where it can't be seen it works well. Make sure the glue gun is hot enough so that the glue is liquid as it comes out, like treacle or syrup.
I'm also experimenting in using it for opaque windscreens.

[mo0g]

I can't bear using Polystyrene Cement on minis as they deform the plastic. Once it's dry, it's there forever!

I tend to favour a medium-viscosity Cyanoacrylate (super glue). Thin, as mentioned, goes everywhere. Thick can be useful but is often too thick for most projects and ends up separating the two parts slightly - also you may never be able to pull them apart! I tend to buy Vital Bond Super Glue, as it is available commonly in this area. Zzap-a-gap is decent. Have seen the gorrilla glue but not tried it. Any suggestions for better superglue applicators is welcome tho. I tend to find the bottle I buy mine in clogs up very quickly and I regularly have to drill out the applicator tube.

This style of bottle is the one causing me issues (seems to be about the only type of bottle I can get round here:

[Hasdrubal]

I tend to use the following stuff :

1. Plastic cement: 3M plastic cement that bought at the local DIY store. It's fairly liquid, but still controllable, and the tube comes with a applicator to place it where you want (looks at you, stupid GW tube).
For pieces that require thorough melting to bond and a very delicate glue application, I use Tamyia plastic cement. The stuff is extra-strong and will really melt plastic ieces if you're not careful; it's also got nasty fumes.

2. Superglue: I tend to favor the Loctce brand, again from either the supermarket or DIY store. I use both the gel and the liquid versions. The gel comes in a handy "push" packaging that makes it very easy to place just the amount needed where you need it; it works great when the surfaces and not fully flush and require some very minor adjustment.
For stuff that's flush or drilled and pinned, the liquid version is the way to go.

3. PVA glue: I'm using standard white glue bought at the stationary store, tried brands but not convinced by the difference. Gonna give a try at matte medium instead since I have a Liquitex bottle of the stuff, And I don't foresee ever require to purchase another one

Thanks for the tips mates!

[theorkmarine]

i use bolsa wood glue like soopa gloo on bigga models very thick though. but its pretty strong (bonding placstick to wood or metal just be careful wif it

[greggles]

This is my absolute favorite glue. I use it on everything from metal, to resin, to plastics. I've tried dozens of brands, and always come back to this one.

[Agatheron]

Here's a picture of the Gorilla Superglue.



Keep in mind that this stuff is not the standard Gorilla Glue (which is a Polyurethane glue). This is "standard" cyanoacrylate, with an additive of microscoping rubber balls that allow for additional strength. I've noticed it bonds noticeably faster, and the bond is quite strong. Additionally, the blue cap comes with a small pin in it, so the bottle doesn't clog up... which tends to happen with most other superglues I have worked with.

[jackdoud]

I've been using Krazy glue for the majority of my modeling glue needs for years.



It has to be that packaging though, the larger tubes, "pens" and mini "single use" tubes are all a waste of time as they don't store well. Also the "skin safe" version is useless. I've also found that any tubes from a "dollar store" or equivalent are usually dried up. Fortunately you can get a 2-pack from target for just under $2, I usually buy 4-5 packs at a time and have enough glue to last a summer of building. As an added bonus you get a nice plastic tube, red cap and green pin cap to add to your bits bin when the glue is gone. I must have close to 100 of them in a box.

[balsak_da_mighty]

This is also what I use, good stuff and pretty cheap too. Around 5 dollars at craft stores.

[mr_maxime]

This is what i use http://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-Original-...7/dp/B000LGPD64

Clogging is a very common problem i have with those. The container also helps in causing superglue explosions. Then sometimes it'll seem 1/3 full, but when I squeeze it nothing comes out.

Ill be giving gorilla super glue a try as soon as my last tubes run out.

[mr_maxime]

I've noticed it bonds noticeably faster, and the bond is quite strong.

Are your models made out of fingers? I cannot get gorilla glue to hold anything except for my fingers. I held it for the recommended 30 seconds. I tried a tiny bit of glue, a moderate amount of glue, and a lot of glue and none of it helped. Then i wiped it all off, used some old zap-a-gap a friend let me borrow until i bought glue and it glued much faster. I dont think ive ever tried a more frustrating super glue than gorilla super glue.

[Agatheron]

I wonder if you got a bad batch... mine has worked fantastically well, and I've rarely had to use accelerant with it. The auto-poker tip thingy on the cap has also made sure that the glue bottle spout doesn't get any crusty bits on it at all.

I have been using this glue on the monster enterprise model that I have been building up. I have yet to try it on either my finecast or metal warhammer models yet. However, I'll stick by my experience of the stuff!!

[mr_maxime]

Ive been using it on plastic pieces, plasticard and milliput with no problem. Metal seems to be a problem. I do wish they made one with a finer tip though.

[Shadey]

My modeling improved measurably the day I found this:



Previously I had glue all over the place but the thin glue combined with the tube applicator allows precise, controlled easy application. I can not emphasize how much it improved my glueing. Agatheron mentioned the type in the original post the only real thing I have to add is I use Revell. Tried Humberol and the glue was far too thick, it would not go down the tube at all and had issues even when I took the entire cap off. Perhaps I got a bad one but either way, I just picked up a new Revell one today so I am happy.

[Kr00zA]

The extra thin super glue has it's uses.
If you want to apply hard wearing sand to a base instead of flock then it comes into it own.
Carefully apply the sand to a 'dry' base and push it about to get it how you like it... then drip the superglue onto it.
Base ends up with a nice gravely texture thats as hard as concrete.

[ukpro]

The extra thin super glue has it's uses.
If you want to apply hard wearing sand to a base instead of flock then it comes into it own.
Carefully apply the sand to a 'dry' base and push it about to get it how you like it... then drip the superglue onto it.
Base ends up with a nice gravely texture thats as hard as concrete.

you can do the same with PVA wood glue without the risk of sticking yourself to your desk just coat where you want to stick the sand on your base with PVA sprinkle or dip the sand onto the base let it dry then tap off or brush off the excess and then brush with watered down PVA voila hard wearing base and much cheaper and cleaner than supaglue

[Trogdar]

I, like Agatheron, prefer the Testors model master glue for the purpose that it is easy to control-it also sets quick enough to hold things in place, but does not cure so fast that you can't make adjustments if you don't like what you just did. The other thing is that (for ork models) you can go a little crazy with how much you use when joining plates-push and pull the pieces apart and force them together to create a small "weld".

For Terrain, and gluing household plastics, PVC, wood, and other odd ball materials I prefer Quick Grip-I get this at Wal-Mart or the craft store
 gloo.jpg ( 21K ) Number of downloads: 0


Pluses-quick, strong bond
Minuses-Messy-use it when you won't see it, metal tube causes glue to keep spilling out if you push too hard.

One of my best examples for use is when I glued a rubber (cobblestone) mat used for displaying Christmas decorations to a PVC pipe to make a tower for fantasy terrain.

Super glue-I would never use this for a plastic model-every plastic model I have seen put together with super glue breaks apart easily.

[jackdoud]

Super glue-I would never use this for a plastic model-every plastic model I have seen put together with super glue breaks apart easily.

See, this is a common complaint I keep hearing and I don't understand it. The only way superglue doesn't hold is if you use it incorrectly, use it on incorrect materials or use too much accelerator (which I never use). There are many versions and brands of CA glue which I think is part of the problem, while they'll all work different types work better/longer for specific things and using them incorrectly makes the error obvious. People just need to read the labels, follow the directions and understand how/why it works.

[Sukigod]

Funny, I just wrote a chapter in my Big Mek Manual about this...

http://www.bigshoota.com/the-big-mek-manua...lues-adhesives/

Agatheron: Interesting differences in some of our takes on glues (well, amongst everyone, I guess). I prefer the Testors tube (orange) glue for the basic builds and things I want to make sure have a strong bond. The thick viscosity helps hold things in place so I can make adjustments longer. This is especially helpful when gluing multiple parts together at once.

I use a lot of PVA glue but it's mostly for terrain. I do use it how ever on anything clear. Polystyrene cement and CA's can (sometimes - not all the time) cause fogging, or "crazing" of the plastic from the fumes as it cures. PVA glue should be enough to hold things like windshields and canopy glass in place and it dries clear.

I do have to admit, I've only recently tried out the Model Masters glue with the super fine tip applicator and thinner glue. (old habits die hard). I'm a believer in this stuff for much of the more delicate work and where I really, really want to make sure there's no excess glue showing. I'm finding it super handy right now for glueing rivets.

I find Hot Glues to be a tremendous help when creating large Apocalypse style models. I use it for much of the roughing in building phase where I don't need a weight bearing strength. It's good for terrain too (not foam though )

I'll have to try that Gorilla version of super glue. The shearing problem is something that keeps me from using it in many situations where I usually default to (messy) epoxies. If this solves some of it I'd probably us it a lot more.

moOg: I know you're comment is pretty old by now but if you're seeing deformations in your plastic models when using poly-cement, you're using way too much. I've never had this happen unless it was intentional (you can make cheap, quick, crack filling putty by dissolving sprue in the thicker poly cements).