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Tutorial: Warbiker Nob from AoBR Deffkopta

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20 replies to this topic

#1
Wolfhound

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This is another attempt at a blog based tutorial. Some pictures are blurry, but luckily I think I was still able to get the jist of everything down in picture form.

Step 1: Materials

Here we begin with 1 AoBR Deffkopta and 1 AoBR Nob. The tires are from Lego (the 30mm x 14mm knobby tire) which you can buy online by itself or from a local Lego store. In my case, I got mine from the Lego store at Stonebriar Mall in Frisco, Texas. I got about 24 of them for just under $9.
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Step 2: Tools

Just a snapshot of some of the tools I used to do this project. The blade of a hobby saw (this was vital for my project, cutting straight lines!) for cutting straight lines, sprue cutter, pin vise with #66 drill bit, 1/32 brass rod, superglue, hobby blade, and a file.

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Step 3: Cutting out the Ork pilot

Here you see snips I made in the plastic with the sprue cutters. This weakened the model so that I was able to just tear out the pilot by bending him.

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I just used the sprue cutters like a pair of pliers and pried out the pilot in chunks. You can see him lying there in the background. Repeat for the other side. Then use a file and the hobby knife to clean up the seat (smooth it down).

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Step 4: Cutting off the landing skids

Hobby saw blade coming to the rescue by being so straight. This allowed me to almost perfectly cut along the lines formed by the sculpt.

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Step 5: Cutting off the lower rokkits and the caps of the top ones.

Again, you can see the straight line that the saw blade provides as I slice off the area that will be the wheel well of the front wheel. I leave the top pair of missiles to act as the mounting point for Dakkagunz later.

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Step 6: Cutting off the tail assembly

Hobby saw blade once again. Basically I followed the mold lines and totally removed the tail rotor, leaving the engines. One of the sets of hoses comes off due to a small box that protrudes. I still haven't glued the two halves together... I just hold them together while I cut so that they're even.

You can also see I've cut off the overhead prop... this is a lot easier to do if the halves are not yet glued together. Note I preserved the "belt" detailing in the plastic... that's because I need that!

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Step 7: Making room for the tire chain/belt

Here I slice off a section of engine detailing to file down and make a flat area where I will mount my "chain."

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Step 8: Attach rear tire assembly

Here you see a better shot of how much of the prop assembly that got cut off. You also see what happens to the prop "arm"... it becomes the bike chain. One of the landing skids also becomes the "mud guard" for the bike chain. This piece is not decorative, it provides structural strength by giving me a second attachment point for the tire which is glued to the bike chain "arm"... there's also a blob of greenstuff up inside what used to be the "ball socket" prop blade housing that's now on the underside of the bike. That greenstuff also gives me a bit more support.

ps - The tire is not centered using this method. It doesn't bother me because I think it looks cooler this way, but if it'll bother you to not have a centered rear tire... you've been warned. :)

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Step 9: Attach front tire assembly

The picture explains it all I should think. One of the propellar blades becomes the two front tire spokes. I filed down the sides of the lego tire until it was smooth and filed down the inside surface of the prop blade so that they'd mesh up. Then I just glued it all to the front cowl. You can see the "hub" from the propellar blade now becomes the reverse "hubcab" of the rear tire.

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In Soviet Orkia... meatballs eat you!

#2
Wolfhound

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Step 10: Slice off the nob

Cut off the legs (cut all of the hip/belt area, you can always file down, but it's difficult to add back material). Sorry, blurry.

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Step 11: Reattach instruments, minus handlebars

Cut off the handlebars and reattached the dials. Sorry, blurry.

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Step 12: Greenstuff the nob

Blob of greenstuff will form the link. There's also a tiny blob in the center of the nobz back as well (so that it attaches to the vertical seat back).

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Coming together! I just smoothed down the greenstuff with the flat side of my hobby knife (I just used spit to keep it "slick" so that it wouldn't stick to the green stuff). Note I cut off the front "radiator" and replaced it with an upside down beakie backpack... dunno why... thought it would be fun. Next time I leave the original radiator in place. :)

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Step 13: Putty in hole left from prop assembly

There's a hole left up top where you cut off the rotor assembly. Here I used a spot of greenstuff and the front of the other landing skid to fill it in. You can also see small pilot holes I drilled into the exhaust pipes for when I drill them out later.

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Step 14: Remove the handlebars and brakes from the molded hands of the pilot

Much, much careful sawing with the hobby blade and filing.

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Step 15: Attach handlebars and Dakkagun barrels

1/8th styrene tube for the win! Due to overexposure of the flash, you can't really see the detail of the Dakkaguns. However, I drew a crude drawing showing how to do the styrene and drill the holes. As you can see, I used greenstuff to attach the barrels.

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Step 16: Attach step ... done

At the very bottom you can see I cut the tips off the other pair of prop blades to form a small "step up" as well as rippy side bits. I took this photo on top of two 40mm discs to show how it'll look on a bike base.

With that... I'm done. 4 hours of work. Hope this helps somebody.

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In Soviet Orkia... meatballs eat you!

#3
Wolfhound

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As a bonus, here's the "prototype" from my first attempt, its Dakkagunz are actually just the big shootas from the AoBR sprue with the arms and stocks cut off.

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In Soviet Orkia... meatballs eat you!

#4
Couillu

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Really nice! I started my own one a while back but unfortunately dropped the idea. I should get back to it!

#5
MaddaMek

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NICE! I did similar thing with My Deffkopta, so I can convert it to biker (of course I use magnets)
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#6
SquigBolts

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nice, but shouldnt the nob be driving?
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#7
Mik McMok the Mek

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Very nice, i recently used the same concept to make a Wazdakka model, using some wheels a deffkopter and a few other bits including power claw from Black reach boss...oh and a old electric toothbrush bas which made an awsome Dakkacannon for him :biggrin

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by Mik McMok the Mek, 09 September 2010 - 03:05 AM.

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#8
siegemaster

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This is sweet! I didn't think I would do any bikers for my army but this makes me want to go out and get some deffkopters

#9
MaddaMek

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nice, but shouldnt the nob be driving?


Well, it transform into BIKER, not Nob Biker.

I've get few Kopters and Nobz pretty cheap (10+10 from AoBR in price of Biker Box :thumbs ), so I can afford to have Nob Bikera AND scrubs that protect Bike Boss (and My bike boss is... bigger than new Dread kit. YES, I screwd Myself).

However... I MAY do bike with some sort of Servo Arm and call it Dok or PK Nob. Huh... that's... SMARTEST IDEA SINCE SQIG-MEATBALLS.
Moldmaking tutorials [part 1] [part2]

#10
Kleiner Zorn

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wow... i got to say thats one of the best posts from how to make a nob biker out of a kopta ive ever seen !!

#11
Kleiner Zorn

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wow... i got to say thats one of the best posts from how to make a nob biker out of a kopta ive ever seen !!

#12
MrSpermdeath

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well played i agree the tire looks good of center
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#13
stompy mek boy

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i used this salf same method in making my tournament nob biker force, and what i will say is this. the resultant bikes are effing huge, roughly the size of the rhino chassis. (which if you think that the beakie bike scale wise is the length of a fair sized car is enormous) of course no one ever said big was bad, but im just letting you know that these guys bikes are comically huge. that said they are devastating in a tournament.

#14
HJL

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this is really awesome, im totally going to do some of these myself. all i need now are some nice beefy tires!

#15
big mek tank krusha

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wow... i got to say thats one of the best posts from how to make a nob biker out of a kopta ive ever seen !!


you can say that again!

oh... ...you did :lol :lol


this is pretty cool, though i do think that the nob should be holding the handlebars with at least 1 hand. currently looks kinda... ...stuck on rather than riding hell fer leather. i dont care if people say that its orky not to hold on, its only orky if they're doing something worthwhile instead, like throttling an 'oomie whilst riding along at full speed, or picking ones nose.

good tut though. :thumbs

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the proppa way to loot a bastion!

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#16
big mek tank krusha

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wow... i got to say thats one of the best posts from how to make a nob biker out of a kopta ive ever seen !!


you can say that again!

oh... ...you did :lol :lol


this is pretty cool, though i do think that the nob should be holding the handlebars with at least 1 hand. currently looks kinda... ...stuck on rather than riding hell fer leather. i dont care if people say that its orky not to hold on, its only orky if they're doing something worthwhile instead, like throttling an 'oomie whilst riding along at full speed, or picking ones nose.

good tut though. :thumbs

-BMTK-

the proppa way to loot a bastion!

mechanical nids in the FBH!

4th Edition Orks in 7th W/D/L: 7/0/3

7th edition Orks W/D/L 4/0/0


#17
erratyk

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amazing tutorial. i've already made 5 bikers out of the koptas, and i'm happy with how they turned out, but i honestly like yours better. i'm gonna have to try this :)

#18
Wolfhound

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Thanks yall.

Yes these things are huge (there is a photo above with them mounted on two 40mm round bases, that shows how really huge they are). But they're "nob sized" so it works (I think) to give the overall impression that these are Nobz.

For those without a local Lego store (link to the "Pick a Brick" tool):
http://shop.lego.com/pab/

The tires I used are formed of 2 parts:

Tyre Normal Wide 30,4 X 14
Element ID: 4140670
Design ID: 30391

Rim Wide 18/14 W. Cross 4.8
Element ID: 4490127
Design ID: 55982

That's only because I only had one option in the store, they didn't have any other tires.

Were I to do this again, I'd probably order online. I'd probably use the same tyre on the back... I love it. But I'd probably use a narrower and smaller front tyre like this one:

Tyre Low Narrow 24x7mm
Element ID: 4541455
Design ID: 61254

Rim Narrow 18/7 W Hole 4.8
Element ID: 4499259
Design ID: 56902

For non-Nobz, I'd probably use two of the narrow tyres. That way with a single glance you can tell which are Nobz (huge rear tyre) and which are regular bikerz (narrow tyres).
In Soviet Orkia... meatballs eat you!

#19
Wolfhound

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this is pretty cool, though i do think that the nob should be holding the handlebars with at least 1 hand. currently looks kinda... ...stuck on rather than riding hell fer leather.


I agree with the sentiment, and I gave it serious thought before modeling it the way I did. I am doing it that way for all my Choppa/Slugga Nobz because I want a visual way to tell which ones are adding the +1 attack by simple glance (crazy bugger riding "hands off" since at some point he'd have to be hands off to shooty stabby anyway). This is one case where I chose usability/game over modeling.
In Soviet Orkia... meatballs eat you!

#20
Kludgnok

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You could meet halfway between gaming/modeling. There are a lot of holstered pistol bits out there, in fact the new grot sprue has a nice slugga in holster. You could also make them easily enough with a slugga and a bit of GS. I certainly understand wanting to be able to tell who is who easily, but the 'look Ma! no hands' thing has always bothered me. Hard to be properly intimidated/wowed by an ork on a bike when you can only imagine him dropping his bike, and eating gravel...
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