101 Compilation, Courtesy of Biv Rating Options

[ikken]

Here is a nice sight wit alot of how to info
this link is to the article on rivets :
http://www.largescaleplanes.com/tips/RatoM...ting_1.html#top

if you drill down in the site you will find stuff on vacuum forming and other useful info .
best site I have been able to find yet on scratch building stuff .
it is a model airplane based site but the techniques are transferable to us .
thought I would post it

[Gangrak]

Bendable Wires 101

[Gangrak]

Bigmek Grotgitz Irontoof has posted an excellent 101 for bionic arms

[Stonebreaker]

Here is a tutorial on how to make Killa Kan and Dreadnought arms:  CC_Arm_Tutorial.doc ( 421.5K ) Number of downloads: 416

[invivos]

CHIPPED OFF PAINT TUTORIAL

Here is a little paint tutorial from me how to make chipped off paint like this in 4 quick steps with only 4 colours! Perfect for any weathered/looted Ork vehicle Example pics (of not yet looted humie weapons... :




Colours needed:

- Black (Vallejo or GW)
- White (Vallejo or GW)
- Bolt Gun Metall (GW)
- Dark Grey (Vallejo 70994)

Steps:

1) Paint BOLT GUN METALL on areas where you want the paint to be chipped off, i.e. most likely edges, near the tracks or wheels or near crew positions or maybe because of gun fire. The spots can be any size though I recommend 2-3mm. Paint it in an irregular pattern e.g. not a simple Oval shape.



2) Now paint/stiffle a very thin line with BLACK around the upper part of the spot. Note that upper means here towards the top of the vehicle! This represents the shadow.



3) Paint a very a very thin line with WHITE around the lower part of the spot. This represents the highlight.




4) Paint DARK GREY VALLEJO inside the Bolt Gun Metall. This causes the paint spots to be less shiny (Bolt Gun metall is very shiny and reflective) but still lets some sparkles through. You can also leave some area unpainted and have the Bolt gun shine fully through, do as you like. You can also correct any mistakes with the white and black colour here.



That´s all! It´s very simple to do even by unexperienced painters (I am not the best painter either soo... ) Hope you like it!

invivos

[Stonebreaker]

Grotzooka or Twin linked Big Shoota tutorial.

 Grotzooka_1_Tutorial.doc ( 229.5K ) Number of downloads: 457

[big mek tank kru...]

theres a tutorial i made fer workin suspension:
http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/?showtopic=40749
gives yer vehicles a spring in their step

[Ranalcus]

HOW TO: Battle damage.

1.Cut damage:
a)Long cut, high angle.

b)Long cuts, low angle.

c)Short deep cuts, 45 degrees angle


2.Bolter/explosion damage:
a)Drill holes.

b)Cut triangle "rays" out from hole

c)Add more "rays" diffrent deepnes and size

[nkelsch]

Here is a write-up for how I made a 2nd-edition-looking NAZDREG style PK for my TERMIMANZ.

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[cadius]

Hey all thought i'd do a simple rust tutorial that i just did on the inderneath of my trukk

You will need the following


tTn bitz
Boltgun metal
Vermin brown
Drybrush
An old brush for stippling

Step 1
Basecoat the area's you want metal with tin bitz


Step 2
Drybrush said areas with boltgun metal



Step 3
This is where that old brush comes in handy*warning DO NOT use your best brush for this part* you need to get your vermin brown and dip your old brush in now on some toilet/kithen roll stiple your brush till hardly any paint comes off onto the towelling.Then stiple all the metal areas with it so that tehy get a coating of the brown


You can leave it at that but i will be adding more stages later on once my cam has charged

[Penguin of Death]

Something I've wanted to try for a while.

GW wheels come in 2 halves and are chunky enough that each half is almost a wheel in it's own right

So with a circle cutter add a couple of suitably sized disks to the flat side (some cutouts for the spikes will be needed) and fill any gaps. Then file to a curve and file some grooves to finish the tread - thin plasticard could be used to continue the plates on the tyres too



Duplicate the outer wheel hubs on the inners using a small disk, a bit of tube, some hex rod and some plain rod



Voila, double your wheels - obviously not perfect, but for anything where the insides of the whells are hidden they should be fine

[det]

tiger style trakks tutorial by kommissar blitzrukk

[big mek tank kru...]

here's a tut on how to make a cybork torso and legs out of the leftovers of a boyz box (if you made slugga boyz)

kablooey!

[Komisarr Blitzru...]

Shoota arm from scorcha arm for yer Kanz

[Warboss maklai]

Hey Nozeminer would you mind posting a tutorial on how you did this particular ork, i imagine its similar to the great coat tutorial but i just want to be sure

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[Ork Dave]

Grubsnikk did part 1 of rivets 101 but thought i would compile all the different options i have seen


Rivets

1. Cut from Plasticard/PS/Styrene rods

Pretty obvious, as it seems to be the most common type on here. Get a rod and slice it up into small bits.

I've bought loads of styrene here: http://www.ema-models.co.uk/catalogue/0137...ne-styrene.html

But you can buy it in loads of places, just google plastruct or evergreen in your area.

I always find that i cut irregular slices of rod, which can be ok sometimes but most of the time I end up wasting the bits. So I bought a mini mitre box: http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/gbu0-pr...w/mitrebox.html

it's perfect for the job. you need a stiffer blade for tubes though, and a long blade for doing the 45 degree cuts

2. Rivet impressions (pattern roller / prodding styrene)

Grubsnikk's thread in the 101 explains how best to easily get results from prodding: http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/?showtopic=35916

This guy takes it very seriously and gives you lots of options for shapes: http://www.largescaleplanes.com/tips/RatoM.../riveting_1.php

Alternatively you can get "pattern rollers" to do long easy lines. If you have 0.25mm or 0.10mm Plasticard you can make nice thin strips of riveted metal really really quickly and it looks different to rivets that are stuck on flush like 1, 3, 5, and 6.

I think this is the one I saw recomended on dakka or warseer: http://www.spruebrothers.com/Nexternal/tru...r-tool-9910.htm

It looks like a pattern roller rather than one of those clamps for actually riveting things - which you encounter if you search for rivet makers/rivets etc.

I have a really old metal n wood version i found.

3. Hole punches

Apparently you can get hole punches down to as small as 1mm but i cant find good pics or links for you. If you google "leather hole punch" you should find a supplier near you who sells you something like this:



I believe the smallest holes are usually 2mm?

TheSnake shows you how to do it with a pen/pencil here: http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/?showtopi...=80#entry527767

This guy shows you how to make a different tool: http://ultrawerke.blogspot.com/2007/08/diy...t-tutorial.html


4. "Negative" rivets i.e. "holes"

You need a pin vice. Get it from any model stores. It's a small hand drill basically. All you do is drill where you want the holes, maybe get different sized bits to vary it up a bit

5. Moulding your own rivets

Encountered this the other day: http://www.spruebrothers.com/Nexternal/gre...t-maker-356.htm

basically you melt a bit of sprue and push it into the mould, then cut it off. you get a rivet head at the end

6. Buying plastic rivets

Got some from Anteniocitis workshop, moulded in a grey plastic similar to GW

the 1.5mm hex nuts look exactly like some of the GW ones, the TINY hex nut is great too, would be great for weapons. The come attached to a sprue so they look like bolts, you could model your figure so it has nuts n bolts coming out of it

need to find camera lead, i have a barry shot

Also you can get them from http://www.grandtline.com/model_railroad/a...ables_pages.htm

They have more shapes

Another shop:

7. Buying actual rivets/bolts

You use a Pin Pusher to push pins/nails through a surface.

I did this on the tracks of a tank i was scratchbuilding and it basically requires so much force you should probably pre-drill the holes before you put the pins in. That's too long winded for the effect in my opinion. Doing it without pre-drilling the holes is not worth the effort or the risk of you using to much force and breaking your whole model. There are advantages however; you can use it to pin things, some nail heads are rounded which is a nice effect and I also reckon you could find interesting things like flathead/phillips effect.

8. Beads

Basically, you drill a small hole and glue a bead in it.

See Kadris's post: http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php...st&p=591959



Scarpia has an excellent blog post here about rivets http://garbo.org/40k/Konviktz/rivets101.html