101 Compilation, Courtesy of Biv Rating Options

[Gaf-Naz]

As requested, Ork Glyph Charts.

All the glyphs from GW ork books throughout the ages. Happy glyphing.

[Bull Gunta Grim ...]

Movable or Poseable Power Klaw Arm

I finally figured out how to get this in the 101 (Duh! So I was brain dead)

This is a 101 I made on how I built my klaw for my Stompa with movable Jaws on the klaws the Pics if printed as Landscape and at 8.5 x 11 in full page or fit to page, will be about the right size (maybe a bit small) to be used for pattern and to scale for an Epicast size Stompa 6-7 in. tall. All parts needed are shown at location #1.

Loot away.

Here are the basic plans for the Arm part of this Power Klaw. All the parts needed for the Arm are shown at location #6. I will be adding more as I get time to make them up.

BGGS

[ORKAMEDES]

For your modeling pleasure......

Squash casting 101

Want to make a custom glyph for all your vehicles? need custom track plates but cutting all the bits got ya down?
here is a easy way to reproduce one sided objects easy and as many as you need without resin or casting material.

You will need:

1-Greenstuff, have tryed other materials but GS works the best due to its flexability
2-Bit to be reproduced, one sided detail only eg. glyph plates, custum track plates etc...(with practice can mold two sided pieces separatly then glue halves
together)
3-Sections of sprue, trimmed so you have long straight pieces
4-Olive or vegtable oil (or other suitable mold release agent)
5-Old paintbrush
6-Piece of plasicard, (cut roughly twice the size of the object being cast)
7-Beer bottle cap with piece of plasicard cut to fit and glued inside of cap
8-Tweezers
9-Modeling knife
10-candle

Making the mold:

1-Mix a blob of greenstuff approx twice the size and thickness of the piece to be cast (with practice you will use less but best to err on the side of caution)
2-Press the greenstuff on to the cut piece of plasticard and flatten out so it is approx 3mm larger than the piece to be cast and a little more than twice as thick,
shape the GS to match the shape of the piece being casted GS at this point should be 2-3 times thicker than the piece. It is best to avoid fingerprints in the
surface as much as possible to avoid prints blurring the final detail of the finished mold. set aside and proceed to step 3
3-Using the paintbrush and tweezers hold the piece being cast and paint a light coat of oil on the front and sides of the piece careful to coat the whole piece,
failure to do so will cause the GS to stick to the piece destroying the mold when the peice is removed.
4-If you did not use tweezer go wash your hands before proceding
5-Carefully place the oil coated piece in the center of the GS and carefully and evenly press it down into the GS, GS will push up and away from the peice as you
push it down.
6-While holding the piece lightly with one hand use the fingers of the other hand to push the edges of the GS in against the edges of the Peice being molded
using a tool at this point works as well but make sure it is well lubed with water, continue pushing the GS up and around all sides of the peice untill it sits slightly
higher than the flat backside of the peice. Do not worry if the GS overlaps the peice slightly trapping the peice in, this is in fact preferable
7-You should now have the Peice being molded firmly imbedded in the GS with only the back side showing. Set carefully aside and aloow GS to cure overnight.

Prepping the mold

1-Now that the GS has cured, hold the knife parallel to the backside of the peice and carefully trim the mold so that the GS is even with the back of the peice
imbedded in the GS, care should be taken to not cut yourself and to not remove too much GS.
2-Now that the excess gs trapping the piece in place has been cut away gently flex the mold and pop the origional out with your fingernail or the tweezers.
3-You should now have a perfect reverse mold of the origional peice, we must now remove the oil from the mold. GENTLY wash the mold with dish soap and hot
water to remove oil residue.

Casting (ONLY TO BE DONE OUTSIDE, PLASTIC FUMES ARE TOXIC) (release agent in the mold at this stage is not reccomended)

1-Light the candle
2-have mold and beer cap ready next to candle and heat the end of the sprue over the candle, try not to light the sprue on fire if possible but no worries if you
do, it will not affect the cast peice other than color. Trial and error will show how much sprue to melt for any given mold.
3-With the beer cap in hand Quickly put the molten tip of the sprue into the mold (blow out first if on fire) and quickly press the plastic flat into the mold with the
beer cap, applying pressure with you thumb in the center of the cap, the P-card put inside acts as a heat sheild to protect your thumb.
4-Hold pressure on the cap for 10-20 seconds.
5-Set mold aside and allow to cool for a minute or so.
6-Using the excess sprue length pop the casting out of the mold, cut the cast peice off the sprue with clippers and repeat as nessasary.
7-After casting 8-10 peices allow mold and cap to cool for a few minutes then carry on.
8-Trimming of the edges will be required and possibly sanding of the flat side, as you become more proficient at casting with this method this prep after casting
will be minimal.

I have used the same mold made in this fashion to produce well over 100 casts and the mold is still producing without and damage or defect.

Feel free to post or PM with any questions.

Orkamedes the Mad Mek

[GrimTeef]

Make a power klaw with easily available ork bitz and plasticard and rod.

Power Klaw 101

[Sorien]

Fast but effective rokkit 101

[rebreather]

Rust effects 101.
http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33058

[Grubsnikk]

An easy peasy rivets tutorial.

http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35916

Hope it helps.

[Ghudra]

How to make quick "welded" or "cut" plates

The 101 is Welded/Cut Plate Steel 101

[invivos]

How to build Meganobz from Nobz and Terminators using the AOBR box!


Gallery and short 101, link is here:

http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/?showtopic=35906

[4tonmantis]

Sukigod's Basing 101

People have asked me on different forums as to how I base my models. It's really simple and easy (which I like very much) and I'm going to show you how I do it. It's in two steps - sand, then grass - easy peasy.

Sanding:
Step 1: I have small tub of fine sand I dug up from a parking lot somewhere. I mix white/pva/Elmer's glue with water - about 25/75, water/glue. I like my glue thicker, but not right out of the bottle thick.

Step 2: I use a crappy, throw away brush to put down some glue.
Step3: Put the boy in the bowl.
Step 4: Push/wiggle him down into the sand until the base is buried.
Step5: Pull him out and shake off the excess sand.
Step6: Gives ya this!




Grass:
Step 1: I picked up a tub of GW grass. I know here's so many alternatives and cheaper and.... whatever. I think I paid $8 for this and have barely put a dent in it. It's worth it unless you're flocking entire hills/terrain boards.

Step 2: Using the same glue from before (and brush) I put down some random spots of glue. I have not let the sand dry, I just don't push my brush around to stir up any of the sand.
Step3: Shimmying the boy around in the grass doesn't work like it did in the sand. I sprinkle a bunch on top, not worrying where it goes, as long as it covers the glue spots.
Step 4: Tilt the boy on his side and TAP the excess off back into the tub.
Step5: It took me a while to find this trick out and now I pass it on to you. Blow a puff of air on the grass - don't worry if you think you'll blow it all off - you won't. This puff of air will remove the excess grass that isn't touching glue and it will amazingly make the grass stand up. Don't believe me? Try it for yourself.
Step6: Gives ya this!




Here's a closer look at the boyz showing the end product. The highlights are a bit bright as I haven't Dull Coted them yet, but this will show you what the final details area like. Not great art but nice tabletop.




Some people have also been asking me "how long did it take?" and "how much time per boy?" kinda questions. It took me 24 days to finish culminating in about 60 hours of painting. In terms of hours/boy, roughly 1.5 hours. My secret? GW Foundation paints and Devlin Mud.

Thanks for looking and hanging in there!

Sukigod

[4tonmantis]

After a loooong time ...here's my rust 101. If all goes well, the next two weeks will see it finished.


First, I'll be covering how I did my standard stippled rust. For this portion I'll be demonstrating on the frame of the truck.

I've begun both pieces with a rust spray by rustoleum... standard stuff from any department/hardware store. I tried to be even and complete.


Next, I took a brush that I had a special loathing for (that's really the only kind you should use as this is a rough bit). To do this piece, use vermin brown and have a double folded paper towel or similar close by. The brush should be frayed and flat though a badly frayed round will probably do the same. Dab the brush into the paint and lightly tap it once on the paper towel then tap repeatedly on the frame. This will be 2 coats but they will/can happen in once pass. The first coat should be thorough and will be applied to the entire frame (I elected not to do this to the engine because these boyz know which part makes it go). Avoid the crevices but just barely... and leave dark patches as in my pictures. As this dries occasionaly tap a few of the areas you've already covered to add a little more depth as these new patches will be slightly brighter.



After this has dried, come back with boltgun metal. This will be pretty similar to the last step with the following changes. Start at the edges only. On rounded parts and parts that should be more heavily rusted you will use more of a drybrushing stroke than a stipple/tap. Look at my patterns and you can get a sense of which areas to focus on.



Second Part Coming Shortly...

[4tonmantis]

Paint Effects
This effect is pretty simple yet effective... (Note: let the paint settle for at least 8 hours between steps).
Taking the primered chasis, I have applied a coat of silver from Model Master acrylics. I used my airbrush for all steps in this (you could probably use the GW sprays but I won't guarantee that) and this silver kinda scared me since normally metallics clog up my airbrush.. all went pretty well though.



Next apply black... this isn't rocket science



Next apply the coat you want everything to appear in for your actual "paint job". I take RPJ on my trukks so that's what I went with... I went a little lighter on areas I knew was going to repaint as they weren't really the focus.


After everything has dried take q-tips and cottonballs and have at it. I recommend soaking an area with an alcohol filled ball the rubbing the worn areas with a cotton swab. The effects you see on mine happen naturally. On one spot on the divider for the bed you can see I rubbed with a file... this was to see how far I would have to go to get to the rust and the angle I was at actually ate through the plastic so that'll be a touchup...



Here it is all together... I will do another segment on washes, decals, peeled paint, and tires. Stay tuned (that won't be till after finals though )

[waaagh5744]

I thought I should post myplastic S.A.G
cheers waaagh

[Nozeminer]

GSing Straps and Buckles.

Just roll out a very small sausage of GS, get it where you want it on the model and then flatten it out so it looks like a strap.

After it cures, take a very small ball of GS and put it where you want the buckle to be. Flatten it out and make it square.

I use an exacto blade with the tip broken off of it for the next step: Use the broken blade and make the indents inside of the buckle.

Then after that has cured, add another very small ball of GS to the edge of the buckle and flatten out and shap to look like it's the end of the strap that has passed through the buckle.

Attached thumbnail(s)

 

[Penguin of Death]

Obviously this tutorial is for an 'umie buggy, but it has been suggested it could be easily looted, so here you go:

A while ago I decided to build some kind of fast attack buggy for the Guard and use it as a Heavy Weapons team. I started off trying to get it to fit on a 60mm base – which is doesn’t, but it is still very narrow as a result, and could probably do with another few mm in width.

This tutorial is based on the buggy I built, but has been refined a bit – there’s a link at the bottom of the page so that you can spot the differences

Parts



A – Chassis. Note the different size cutouts
B – Radiator. I used model railway scale corrugated iron
C – Engine bay side. 2x needed
D – Front Bulkhead
E - Bonnet
F – Front Wheel Arch Square. 2x Needed
G – Front Wheel Arch Triangle. 2x Needed
H – Roll Cage Base. 8x Needed
I – Body Side. 2x Needed
J – Rear Bulkhead
K – Rear Side. 2x Needed
L – Back Panel
M – Weapon Platform
N – Rear Wheel Arch. 2x Needed

All the component bits of the basic are 1mm thick plasticard or 2mm diameter rod.
In addition you’ll need 4x beakie Bike wheels and something suitable to use for axels approximately 35mm long – I used 3mm diameter rod and enlarged the holes in the wheels, alternatively you could carve down the ends of a piece of sprue which would have the advantage of ending up with flat sides for gluing

Build



The chassis (A) has longer gaps for the wheels at the front. The wheels are glued onto the axels and the axels glued on 10mm in from either end
The front is built up from the radiator (B) 2x side piece © and the front bulkhead (D)



The bonnet (E) is placed on top. The square part of the wheel arch (F) is set at around 15 degree off vertical, and then the Triangular piece (F) is glued on between it and the bonnet



At each end of the Front Bulkhead there is a Roll Cage Base (H). Then on with the sides (I) – my model has these flush with the inside edges of the tubes, but they could easily be set a bit further out
Another set of tubes and the Rear bulkhead (J) between them



The back is built up from another 4 tubes, one at each corner with the Rear Sides (K) and Back Panel (L) between them



The Weapons Platform (M) sits on top of all the panels and has holes or notches cut out to fit snugly over the tubes. The Rear Wheel Arches (N) tuck in at 45 degrees with the narrow end to the top

Extras



Roll Cage – I’ve used 1mm wire to build up a cage and more tubing to bulk it up. Once the driver is painted there will be more connecting the front and back pieces. Alternative arrangements could be built or let off, or you could plate over it to add armour

Lights – I’ve used the speaker parts of 'umie vox packs, but alternatively there I considered the small lights from beakie vehicle accessory sprues, or something made from GS with the front detail from a beakie bike added

Main Weapon – Mine is a simple stack of cylinders with a magnet on top to swap any of the Heavy Weapons available

Crew – As it is to represent a Heavy Weapons team it really needs 2 guys. My driver has the straight legs from the Tank accessories set cut and rebuilt sitting, he also has gunner’s arms to represent holding some kind of steering wheel. The gunner has a body built in a similar way and will have some kind of controls for the Main Weapon.
They also need some seating, I’ve simply used some square section rod

Other bits – Depending on your bits box you could add fuel cans, extra ammo, weapons.

Additonal Pics of the build here: http://z11.invisionfree.com/Work_In_Progre...c=12538&hl=

[Nozeminer]

Since I've had a few requests for help with sculpting great coats, I thought I'd do a 101 on them.

While you can easily add coats right over the existing models, I found it's still best to file down the area that will be covered by the coats. Especially any sharp pointy parts, because no matter how careful you are, they will ALWAYS poke through.

First, don't try to do the whole coat in one go. Break it up into at least 4 sections. Two top and two bottom. Do the top part of the coats first, the parts that touch the torso. Try to stop where there will be a naturally occurring seem, like a belt or an actual seem in the garment or whatever. This will make the blending SOOO much easier. Look at coats, shirts, whatever, preferably in the same position as your model, and note where folds occur and try to duplicate that on your model. Let each quarter cure before moving on to the next section.

[Nozeminer]

For the bottom parts, you'll need some smooth plastic. I use a ziploc, but any semi-thick baggie will do. Take your GS and flatten it out onto the baggie. Make sure it's well lubricated. When you think you've got enough water on the baggie, add some more. Then use an exacto handle like a rolling pin. Again, well lubed. Cut it to shape, make sure you leave a little extra where you will be attaching it to the piece, and let sit for about 15-20 minutes, or until it's still pliable but not tacky.


Then carefully peel it off of the plastic, making sure you avoid leaving any fingerprints on it, as these will be nearly impossible to smooth out. Stick it to the piece and add billows and folds where necessary. Sometimes you might need to go back and add a thin layer of GS and then add some folds to that.

[Nozeminer]

The lapels are added next.


Once the lapels have cured add a belt to hide the gap where the four parts meet.




Do the arms separate from the body and then add them when you're done with the entire coat. You can then fill in any gaps. I use my sculpting tool for the fold where the arm bends at the elbow , because the folds there tend to be deeper. And then I use a clay shaper to add the smaller folds around the big, main fold.

[Nozeminer]

Epaulets 101

First start with the main structure. Make sure that both epaulets are the same size and are even on the shoulders.


Once they are cured, add the little dangly things. Get them into the basic shape and use an Exacto knife and lightly add diagonal lines around the whole thing. Then cut them into individual chords by pressing a bit more firmly with the knife. It may be necessary to go back and redo some of the diagonal lines after this step as sometimes they get a little flattened out when you add the chords.



After they've cured, it's time to add the top chord. Take a thin sausage of GS, the same the thickness as the dangly chords you just made. Once you've got that into place make the diagonal lines the same as before. It will be easier if you do them in steps. Start with doing them from the bottom (underneath where the chord meets the rest of the epaulet).



Once that part is cured, you can add the little baubles and shiny bitz. Google some pictures to get some ideas for what else you want to add.

[Zsoulless]

I was asked about this a week ago...
Sorry I didnt get around to linking it here before..

My Simple Model lighting Tutorial