101 Compilation, Courtesy of Biv Rating Options

[Gutzmek]

Hi folkz,
I`ve made an easy little tutorial for making boltgun styled shootas and interesting sluggas , I hope it helps...

What you need:
For one blood axe shoota you need one of the old boltgun like Ork shootaz and one shoota of the current ork sprue.


Where to cut:
You have to cut off the muzzle of the "boltgun" shoota and the barrel and the muzzle of the "new" shoota


Glue the parts together:
Now you have the following parts, the upper parts you`ll need for the slugga, the others you`ll need for the shoota :

and the only thing to do now is to glue these parts together


Please feel free to loot this idea

Greetz Gutzmek

[Nozeminer]

NOZEMINER'S GREENSTUFFING ARMS 101 - PART 1

When using GS, just be patient and "keep your tool lubed." � If you screw up, pull it off and start again. Remember, it's not the end of the world, or your model.

The hardest part about this technique is waiting for the GS to cure, or harden, completely. I generally try to wait AT LEAST 8 to 10 hours before handling it. Or put it about 3-4 inches under a desk lamp for about 20 minutes. Not much longer or you'll end up with something that looks like it's a Nurgle worshiper.

First, you need good tools. I got this set of 12 for about $15.00 (w/ shipping) off of E-Bay. It's a great buy, considering GW sells ONE tool for about $5.00 less.



Home made from plastic rod.



This is my favorite tool. Don't know why, it just works best for me.




Then clean the flash and mold lines off of your arms and legs.



Take a small sausage of GS and stick it to the model. I try and keep the GS a little tacky when first applying it to the piece. That way it's more likely to stay on the piece instead of coming off on your tool. With a little water on the tool, spread the GS over the muscle and shape accordingly. It's easiest to do one muscle group at a time. I like to do the medial (middle) head of the deltoid (shoulder muscle) first, and then move to the anterior (front) and posterior (rear) heads. It's not as intimidating when you break it down into separate muscle groups.




After these have cured, move on to the triceps (back of upper arm). Be sure to have a clamp or something similar handy so you're not laying the arm down flat on the table. This will give you a nice flat area on the curing GS.





To be continued...

[Nozeminer]

NOZEMINER'S GREENSTUFFING ARMS 101 - PART 2

Once the triceps (back of the arm) have cured, sculpt the biceps (front of the arm). To make the vein on the biceps, gently push your sculpting tool into the GS, creating a ridge. Do this along the length of the muscle then do the same to the other side of the ridge, being careful to follow the first line you did. Set aside to cure, again use the clamp.





After that cures, move onto the forearms and the brachialis (the long, thin muscle on the outside of the upper arm, between the biceps and triceps). Remember to do only one muscle group at a time.




If you're looking for Skarboyz that are a bit taller than normal Orks, you can do the bottoms of the feet while you're waiting for any of the previous steps to cure. Just do them one foot at a time. Otherwise you'll end up with fingerprints as boot treads. When doing the second foot, make sure you test the height to make sure it is the same as the other foot; this will avoid having to shave and file the taller foot to get a level Ork.




After everything has cured, glue the torso to the legs. Then take small balls of GS, stick them to where the arms will go. Wet the shoulder join on the arm and push it into the GS on the torso until you get the right position. The arm should come right off, leaving the GS stuck to the torso. Leave it there to cure.



When it has cured, glue the arm on. I use super glue for this step. It dries quicker and IMO gives a better bond. When the glue has dried (a couple of minutes), push some GS into the gap and use the sculpting tool to mold a rough shape. Then with my home made round tool, I mold the GS into the final shape.




Just keep the human anatomy in mind when sculpting muscles. You can use books on anatomy or muscle magazines for reference.

Now you're done! All you have to do now is get 'em painted and let 'em lose on your unsuspecting opponent!

Warboss Kurgan was the inspiration for this thread by the way. He's the one that suggested trying this technique. Thank you.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

[ThorDUDE]

Vacuforming 101 by LackOfBetterName
http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php...=23062&st=0

[AlexTheGolem]

hope yah dont mind me posting up this....

salt dipping boys! woo yeh!

101 time!

Now, alow me to tell thy, the pics are terrible, the new camera is on tour with one of my parents, so i used thine silly annoying camera to take the pics. And i was running around making sure things didnt burn.

The Ekwipment

Salt. (big grains for the win)

A tin. (tuna tins are good, as they are smaller)

A pot. (the cooking kind)

Plastic. (or whatever you want to bend)

A clock or watch. (usefull)

Pliers. (two if possible)

A very tight fitting glove. (or a pot of water to plunge your hand into. The heated plastic wont burn you, but it is warm)

Knifes. (to clean mold lines while waiting)







what to do boss?

Unless it wasnt painfully obvious, put the salt in the tin and the tin in the pot. Place the pot upon the oven an turn it up to 8. or 4/5 of the way.

You need to make sure you have anough salt in there so that his feet dont touch the bottom of the tin. But not too much or it wont work. Probably about 1/4 of the tin will do.

Wait 5 mins, then turn it down to 6/12 or 3/12.
6/12 if you have very little time and a tight fitting glove, 3 other wise. now wait another 10-20 mins and then continue.

Now, grap the boys legs around his waist with the pliers, and shove him deep in the salt, with the socket of his waist peeping out of the salt, you dont want this to jellyfy, or you wont be able to get his body attached later.



Now. At this time it should take 50 seconds or less before you fish him out. when you fish him out, grab his waist again with the pliers, and use your hand or tight fitting glove to sweep away the salt grains stuck to his feet. Then bend them in wich direction you wish.





For the rest of the boys. 30 seconds should do.

WAAARGH! da safety!

It aint that dangerous, but its good to be secure!

Make sure you dont touch the oven, have a glove for handling the tin, and turn the oven fan on.

Dont try to burn yourself, and i do suggest a glove, though i did without one.

conclusion

It works well! here are all the legs i did.

http://img462.imageshack.us/img462/938/dscn0154jb9.jpg

again, sorry bout the pics.

Enjoy! (these will be storm boy legs. )

[Boss Ardnutz]

Making rokkitz 101:



Also includes making swappable weapons:

[Stonebreaker]

I was asked to include this a while back and I am just getting around to it. Here is my take on how to build a Big Shoota or TLBS. I have included a link to the original thread and the PDF File.

http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php...amp;hl=tutorial

 Big_Shoota_Tutorial.pdf ( 1.31MB ) Number of downloads: 451

[Nozeminer]

NOZEMINER'S RIPPED PANTS 101

First it may be neccessary to file off some of the knee to get a nice round area to work on.


Then take a VERY small ball of GS (a little goes a long way) and put it where you want your tear to be.


Smooth out the edges of the GS and blend them into the pants. Then push your sculpting tool into the GS and make a lip around the knee. Round out the inside of the circle and make it smooth, this will be the kneecap.


Once you've got the kneecap shaped, take a sharp sculpting tool or an exacto knife and carefully drag it down through the lip of GS you made.


Be carefull not to drag it across the kneecap. This will be the frayed and ripped cloth. Do this all the way around the circle. Make sure you pull down with the knife. This will give the impression that the frayed cloth is hanging straight down.

And now you're ready to make all of your Orks look like a seemstress' nightmare.

[rebreather]

REBREATHER'S 2ND EDITION GRETCHIN TO GROT 101

I humbly submit my grechin to grot 101.
http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24220
Thanks for keeping the 101 post going Biv. It really is helpful!

[DanHowitzer]

This tutorial rocks and I can't wait to make a squad of skarboyz using this!

Also, I wholeheartedly recommend soft-tipped "clay shaper" sculpting tools to make smooth shapes like this. These things have silicon tips that glide right over green stuff and lets you easily sculpt amazing looking smooth organic shapes. (I swear I'm not getting paid by these companies, I just love these things )

The white ones are super soft and the darker ones are firmer.


(I can't remember what website I stole this image from.)

[Boss Ardnutz]

You can also get GS as Polymeric Systems Kneadatite Blue/Yellow. This is the same stuff GW sells, but much cheaper.


The tube is the same amount of GS as a 36" tape.There is a big advantage to buying the tube rather than the tape. In tape form, the blue and yellow will start to cure down the middle where they are in contact, while still in the packet. This is pretty wasteful since you have to cut out the cured bits or risk having hard lumps in your GS when you are trying to sculpt. The tube format keeps the colours apart so you don't get this problem.

Wrap each colour in greaseproof paper before putting it back in the tube, and keep it in the fridge to extend shelf life.

[Nozeminer]

NOZEMINER'S GREENSTUFFING FLAMES 101

I'm still working on a good technique for doing flames. This probably isn't the best way, but it's what I've come up with so far.

First, I start by making a cone out of GS, as you'll need something to use as a base so the GS doesn't move around too much when you're sculpting the flames. Make the cone into roughly the shape you want you flames to be.


After that has cured, wrap some more GS aroung the cone. Blend the seem together a bit. Then, start at the tip of the flames, using a sculpting tool or Excato knife, push slightly into the GS and then pull some of it back out toward the tip in a wavey line. Repeat this as you work your way around the cone, and when you get back to the starting point, move down towards the base and start the next row. Keep doing this until you've covered the whole cone.


Make sure you add some randomness to the lines. First pull the wave one way and then vary it up occasionally by pulling the wave to the opposite direction. The hardest part will be the tip of the flames. Just keep working it until it looks good.

[invivos]

Well since many people liked my custom Big shoota here is a "How to build your own Real Big shoota -Tutorial"

Two pics, first the parts U need to do it, second how to assemble/cut them

Happy shooting!

Attached thumbnail(s)

 

[Vygruk Z Grodu K...]

Vygruk'z Stomping 101 - how to make footprints

First make yourself a pair of shoes. I curved mine out of 2mm plasticard, but you could make them out of GS too or cast them if you like.
In fact, it would be the best idea if you carved/cast them from an elastic material (shoe bottom rubber for example) so that stomping on curvy surfaces gets easier.

Add some convenient handles to it, so that you can grab them with yer grubby handz.


Put some muddy coloured paint (scorched brown for example) on a palette (or an old used CD). Make sure it's rather thick, don't dilute it so that it doesn't flow around. Put your shoe into the paint, stomp 2 or 3 times on the palette in order to take off the excess paint, and then stomp at will all over the model. Afterwards you can correct the details of the footprint with a detail brush.


Finally, make sure that you put your boot into the skumgrods face too!


P.S.: If you really care, you can make different sizes of shoestamps to represent orkz, nobz, grotz, and obviously your Boss. You could even try making some greasy handprints or squigfootprintz using the same technique too!

[invivos]

Well during the work on my CoD Gargant I came up with this quick solution for a high tech looking ammo belt It was inspired by todays gatling gun´s ammo feed/belt systems and is really very easy to build! You don´t even need a Dremel!

Below I put together a simple tutorial with step by step pics

The parts you need can be seen in the pics BUT you will also definitely need a powerfull,quick super glue!!! I am not kidding here, plastic cement won´t glue the ink cartridges!

I emptied the ink cartridges by pushing the ball inside and shaking the ink out. The hole was enlarged with a scissor so the missile tip could fit neatly inside. Use gloves here so you don´t get blue hands!

Hope you like da Ammo Belt! Enjoy!



Da Belt in action! Dakka DakkA!

[invivos]

During the work on my CoD-gargant I came up with a quick & simple method to build a fully moveable ball mounted Big shoota It uses an 'umies tank dozer blade, a 6mm airsoft ball bullet and a shoota, that´s basically all!

I have thrown together a quick tutorial for you guys so you can build your own too and attach them to whatever vehicle, stompa or gargant you like!

Alternatively you can also replace the Big shoota with a Scorcha/Bazooka (use an 'umies flamer/missile launcher then as gun) giving you the possibility to simply change weapons in between battles! The best thing is the gun has a ~70-80° gun angle so you get a really wide arc of fire You could also add a gun shield to it if you like!

Hope you like it! Enjoy!

[Darius]

I made this 101 for sculpting moldmaking and casting link
-brad

can you fix a litle problem i cant see the pictures.

[drabber]

pictures are now fixed

[Nargred Uz Froth...]

Rokkit launcher 101 by Narziss

This needs to be here. Good for all your rokkit needs

[Agatheron]

Here's a 101 for painting Ork Skin using Foundation Paints and controlled washes...

It's a way to do a large number of models reasonably quickly that also looks good...